Mt. Everest 2005: Everest Summiter Humphrey Murphy

Now there is an Everest Summit Picture!

Humphrey Murphy from Ireland became an Everest Summiter this spring as you can see. He summited with two children's jitterbug toys as you can see in the picture below. That must be a record!

"I left 8300 around 1am on the 30th and with a flow rate of 3 on the Poisk I literally jogged to the ridge. By the second step just as dawn was breaking I had overtaken eight climbers and felt great.  I had intended an oxygenless ascent but backed out given the unstable weather.  If I had of known it was going to be such a perfect day!!!.

By 7:10 I was on the summit having been overtaken by Julian Thompson with Dawa and Wangchu. Good company to have on the summit, Julian was in ebullient mood and we took photos before he departed down to leave me on my own with the roof of the world.  I started to pay the price however for my open necked, bareheaded and switched off poisk approach to the summit as my brain and body started to decline quite rapidly.

A few more photos some thoughts and then back down in haste.  I was low on Os having two bottles that were each a third short.  Two or so hours later I was back at 8,300 and took a few hours rest before continuing to 7700.  I was caught out by the storm that afternoon and took a few slips on the ropes in the descent.  It was this weather that one supposes contributed to the death of the Indian climber on his descent from the summit.

The poor visibility and effort at 7800 was so great that I was forced to use another tent than my own for fear of missing it in the poor vis.  The next afternoon I was back in ABC, the next day BC and the following evening I was in Kathmandu drinking my first beer in two months. "

Humphrey was with the Monterosa group. "I had a tough trip stocking camps and sitting out the weather, but a beautiful summit day more like a low level scramble than the roof of the world, I was lucky, others were less so."

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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