
Update: 4/21/2005
Mt.
Everest 2005:
Alpindustria Adventure Team
Everest expedition:
Abramov Alexander reports from Everest Base
camp: SNOW
Update:
Abramov Alexander (expedition
leader) reports from Everest BC (5100m), Tibet.
April 18: I have just arrived in
BC and was met very friendly and warmly. Everything is practically ready here:
tents, shower, mahogany toilet.
The expedition members are
working according to our plan, they have been here for 4 days already.
Tomorrow yaks are leaving for ABC, 40 yaks have left already and 40 more are
leaving tomorrow.
So, 80 all in all, and 20
yaks have been to Middle Camp already bringing our loads. Two Slovenians
Victor and Marko are in IBC now. They are going to spend 2 days there on the
altitude of 5800m and then they will move to ABC.
Tomorrow 7 people with
Nikolay Cherny as a leader: Iakovenko, Dusharin, Semenov, James Wilde, are
leaving for acclimatization first in IBC and the day after tomorrow in ABC.
Plans for the North Col ascent will depend upon the weather. Other teams are
also planning to start for IBC and the day after tomorrow for ABC.
The weather is rather good,
though the wind is pretty strong - but our camp is in a pocket, so we are well
protected from the wind. We bought hoses in Katmandu and found a small lake
with pure water on a glacier just 150m above us. So our expedition is well
provided with the pure water.
Korobeshko Ludmila
AlpIndustria Adventure team
Project
Here are the news from Alex's
expedition:
Abramov
Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu:
April 13 Katmandu is
celebrating the New 2062 Year. We took an active part in this celebration till
3a.m. with Champaign.
At present there are several
famous Russian climbers, preparing for their expeditions: Yuri Koshelenko with
Nikolay Totmyanin and Sergey Bogomolov
April 14: Well-known climber
Maxim Onipchenko from Russian Ministry of Extraordinary Affairs arrived in
Katmandu today. His is going to escort Sergey Kaimachnikov to Moscow. Sergey
is feeling ok except for the low hemoglobin level. It took us the whole day to
prepare Sergey for the transportation to Moscow. Alexei Kalganov and Vladimir
Legoshin are getting ready with everything to meet Sergey in Moscow. Russian
Ambassador in Nepal Valery Nazarov came to see Sergey in the hospital in
Katmandu.
In the evening Dmitry
Moskalev reported that our expedition reached BC (5100m). All 19 expedition
members are feeling ok. Yaks are ordered for April 16 to put up IBC (5800m)
and April 17 to put up ABC (6400m). Members are going to reach ABC April
20-21.
April 15: Early this morning
military ambulance brought Sergey to the airport. The flight was delayed for 3
hours. So in stead of convenient 45-minutes connection in Doha, it seems
Sergey and Maxim will have to spend a night in Doha. Russian Consul in Nepal
Vladimir Popov helped us a lot today. I would also like to express my
gratitude to Quatar Airlines for their understanding and support.
Tomorrow I am taking a bus to
Tibet to join my expedition. Yuri Koshelenko and Nikolay Totmyanin chose to
join me. They say "Bombs cannot hit the same place twice".
So, tomorrow will be attempt
#2.
Korobeshko Ludmila
AlpIndustria Adventure team
Project
See here
for News on the amoist attack on two climbers on this team
05.04.2005 Morning.
Andrey Selivanov (expedition
doctor) reports from Kathmandu:
The departure of the advanced
group, planned for today (Nikolay Cherny, Andrey Selivanov and 11 sherpas),
was postponed because of the maoists' strike. Traffic in Katmandu streets is
blocked. Two expedition members from Slovenia - Lihteneker Marko and Mlinar
Viktor who left for trekking to Laktang - couldn't take a car to Katmandu.
They called and said they
would be walking all night - which is 140km! Everything was ready for the
start to Tibet: 4 trucks, 15 tons of expedition loads and the first in the
history of Everest expeditions mahogany toilet.
05.04.2005 Afternoon. Andrey
Selivanov (expedition doctor) reports from Kathmandu:
Today Lihteneker Marko and
Mlinar joined us in the hotel. They got stuck in Laktang because of the
strike. It is 140km from Katmandu. They were walking the whole night and day
and today reached the hotel. Tomorrow we are making Tibet visas and possibly
are leaving Katmandu the day after tomorrow.
Today the last group is
leaving Moscow for Katmandu - Moskalev Dmitry, Iakovenko Alexander,
Kaimachnikov Sergey.
A couple of weeks ago
Moskalev broke his arm. He is supposed to remove the plaster in a week. But
his friend Iakovenko Alexander promised to help him do it earlier - during the
flight to Katmandu.
Update:
04.04.2005
Alexander Abramov (expedition
leader) reports from Kathmandu.
Hi, everyone. Almost all the
expedition members have arrived in Kathmandu. Yesterday, April 3, 7 members
from Russia have arrived: Skaller Grigory,
Ovasapyan Karo,
Lande Vladimir,
Semenov Sergey
Taidakov Yury,
Dusharin Ivan
Tsokur Dmitry
Dmitry brought a snowboard
with him, Sergey took skis - the guys are planning to make a descent from the
North Col.
April, 5 the first group:
Nikolay Cherny, Andrey Selivanov and 11 sherpas are leaving for Tibet to put
up BC before the arrival of the big group. The rest of the team with Alexander
Abramov are leaving Katmandu April 7. Though there are some rumors about the
possible maoists' strikes - so the departure can be postponed.
Update 4/2/2005:
Alexander Abramov (expedition
leader) reports from Kathmandu.
Hi, everyone. Today March 31
t first three members of our Everest expedition arrived: Ulph Robert
(British) Lihteneker Marko (Slovenia) and Mlinar Viktor (Slovenia).
We are working a lot -
getting everything ready for a great expedition. We brought a big pile of
equipment: several notebooks,
RBGan, video cameras, web-cameras. Right now we are adjusting all this: one
of the notebooks broke down.
We are designing a wooden
toilet - first in the history of Everest expeditions.
This year there are about 30
expeditions from Tibet side. And ours is going to be on of the largest. Alex
In seasons 2003 and 2004
Russian Adventure Team organized 2 successful commercial expeditions on
Everest from Tibet side. Based on the last 2 years' experience, RAT is
launching another Everest expedition in spring 2005.
"Looks like people trust us,
- says Alexander Abramov (Alex), the founder and permanent leader of Russian
Adventure Team Everest Expeditions - and this year the list of participants
is practically ready before the New Year.
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Leaving Ktm for Tibet on 7-April |
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CLIMBING MEMBERS |
NATIONALITY |
CLIMBING SHERPAS |
|
1 |
Mr. Abramov Alexander |
Russian |
Mr. Mingma Gelu Sherpa |
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2 |
Mr. Chernyy Nikolay |
Russian |
Mr. Pemba Tenjing Sherpa |
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3 |
Mr. Taydokov Yury |
Russian |
Mr. Lakcha Sange Sherpa |
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4 |
Mr. Dusharin Ivan |
Russian |
Mr. Pasang Dorchi Sherpa |
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5 |
Mr. Moskalev Dmitry |
Russian |
Mr. Pasang Tenje Sherpa |
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6 |
Mr. Kaymachnikov Sergey |
Russian |
Mr. Pemba Nurbu Sherpa |
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7 |
Mr. Lakovenko Alexandre |
Russian |
Mr. Rinjen Sherpa |
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8 |
Mr. Skaller Grigory |
Russian |
Mr. Mingma Nuru Sherpa |
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9 |
Mr. Ovasapyan Karo |
Russian |
Mr. Pasang Sherpa |
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10 |
Mr. Lande Vladimir |
Russian |
Mr. Ngima Dorchi Sherpa |
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11 |
Mr.Pokhvalin Igor |
Ukraine |
Mr. Mingma Dorjee Sherpa |
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12 |
Mr.Ulph Robert |
British |
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13 |
Mr.Hanna Noel Richmond |
British |
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14 |
Mr. Stark Lynne Patricia |
British |
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15 |
Mr. Gariano Lorenzo |
British |
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16 |
Mr. Lihteneker Marko |
Slovenian |
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17 |
Mr. Mlinar Viktor |
Slovenian |
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18 |
Mr. Christiana John
Thomas |
USA |
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19 |
Mr. Wilde James Dewitt |
USA |
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20 |
Mr. Schneider Nathaniel
Raymond |
USA |
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21 |
Mr. Kikstra Klaas Harm |
Netherlands |
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Three members - Abramov
Alexander (leader), Cherny Nikolay (guide), Selivanov Andrey (expedition
doctor) started March 27 for Katmandu. They will arrive in Nepal several days
ahead of the rest of the team to do all the necessary preparations for the
expedition. The other expedition members will gather in Katmandu between March
31 and April 7.
After that the expedition
will start for Tibet.
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