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  Mt. Everest 2005: Alpindustria Adventure Team (7 Summits Club Everest Expedition) Everest expedition: Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Everest BC (5100m), Tibet.


Update: 4/21/2005 Mt. Everest 2005: Alpindustria Adventure Team Everest expedition: Abramov Alexander reports from Everest Base camp: SNOW

Update: Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Everest BC (5100m), Tibet.

April 18: I have just arrived in BC and was met very friendly and warmly. Everything is practically ready here: tents, shower, mahogany toilet.

The expedition members are working according to our plan, they have been here for 4 days already. Tomorrow yaks are leaving for ABC, 40 yaks have left already and 40 more are leaving tomorrow.

So, 80 all in all, and 20 yaks have been to Middle Camp already bringing our loads. Two Slovenians Victor and Marko are in IBC now. They are going to spend 2 days there on the altitude of 5800m and then they will move to ABC.

Tomorrow 7 people with Nikolay Cherny as a leader: Iakovenko, Dusharin, Semenov, James Wilde, are leaving for acclimatization first in IBC and the day after tomorrow in ABC. Plans for the North Col ascent will depend upon the weather. Other teams are also planning to start for IBC and the day after tomorrow for ABC.

The weather is rather good, though the wind is pretty strong - but our camp is in a pocket, so we are well protected from the wind. We bought hoses in Katmandu and found a small lake with pure water on a glacier just 150m above us. So our expedition is well provided with the pure water.

Korobeshko Ludmila

AlpIndustria Adventure team Project

Here are the news from Alex's expedition:

Abramov Alexander (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu:

April 13 Katmandu is celebrating the New 2062 Year. We took an active part in this celebration till 3a.m. with Champaign.

At present there are several famous Russian climbers, preparing for their expeditions: Yuri Koshelenko with Nikolay Totmyanin and Sergey Bogomolov

April 14: Well-known climber Maxim Onipchenko from Russian Ministry of Extraordinary Affairs arrived in Katmandu today. His is going to escort Sergey Kaimachnikov to Moscow. Sergey is feeling ok except for the low hemoglobin level. It took us the whole day to prepare Sergey for the transportation to Moscow. Alexei Kalganov and Vladimir Legoshin are getting ready with everything to meet Sergey in Moscow. Russian Ambassador in Nepal Valery Nazarov came to see Sergey in the hospital in Katmandu.

In the evening Dmitry Moskalev reported that our expedition reached BC (5100m). All 19 expedition members are feeling ok. Yaks are ordered for April 16 to put up IBC (5800m) and April 17 to put up ABC (6400m). Members are going to reach ABC April 20-21.

April 15: Early this morning military ambulance brought Sergey to the airport. The flight was delayed for 3 hours. So in stead of convenient 45-minutes connection in Doha, it seems Sergey and Maxim will have to spend a night in Doha. Russian Consul in Nepal Vladimir Popov helped us a lot today. I would also like to express my gratitude to Quatar Airlines for their understanding and support.

Tomorrow I am taking a bus to Tibet to join my expedition. Yuri Koshelenko and Nikolay Totmyanin chose to join me. They say "Bombs cannot hit the same place twice".

So, tomorrow will be attempt #2.

Korobeshko Ludmila

AlpIndustria Adventure team Project

See here for News on the amoist attack on two climbers on this team

05.04.2005 Morning.

Andrey Selivanov (expedition doctor) reports from Kathmandu: 

The departure of the advanced group, planned for today (Nikolay Cherny, Andrey Selivanov and 11 sherpas), was postponed  because of the maoists' strike. Traffic in Katmandu streets is blocked. Two expedition members from Slovenia   - Lihteneker Marko and Mlinar Viktor who left for trekking to Laktang - couldn't take a car to Katmandu.

  They called and said they would be walking all night - which is 140km! Everything was ready for the start to Tibet: 4 trucks, 15 tons of expedition loads and the first in the history of Everest expeditions mahogany toilet.

05.04.2005 Afternoon. Andrey Selivanov (expedition doctor) reports from Kathmandu:

Today  Lihteneker Marko and Mlinar joined us in the hotel. They got stuck in Laktang because of the strike.  It is 140km from Katmandu. They were walking the whole night and day and today reached the hotel. Tomorrow we are making Tibet visas and possibly are leaving Katmandu the day after tomorrow.

Today the last group is leaving Moscow for Katmandu - Moskalev Dmitry, Iakovenko Alexander, Kaimachnikov Sergey.

A couple of weeks ago Moskalev broke his arm. He is supposed to remove the plaster in a week. But his friend Iakovenko Alexander promised to help him do it earlier - during the flight to Katmandu.

Update: 04.04.2005

Alexander Abramov (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu.

Hi, everyone. Almost all the expedition members have arrived in Kathmandu. Yesterday, April 3, 7 members from Russia have arrived: Skaller Grigory,

Ovasapyan Karo,

Lande Vladimir,

Semenov Sergey

Taidakov Yury,

Dusharin Ivan

Tsokur Dmitry

Dmitry brought a snowboard with him, Sergey took skis - the guys are planning to make a descent from the North Col.

April, 5 the first group: Nikolay Cherny, Andrey Selivanov and 11 sherpas are leaving for Tibet to put up BC before the arrival of the big group. The rest of the team with Alexander Abramov are leaving Katmandu April 7. Though there are some rumors about the possible maoists' strikes - so the departure can be postponed.

Update 4/2/2005:

Alexander Abramov (expedition leader) reports from Kathmandu.

Hi, everyone. Today March 31 t first three members of our Everest expedition arrived: Ulph Robert  (British)   Lihteneker Marko (Slovenia)  and Mlinar Viktor (Slovenia).

We are working a lot - getting everything ready for a great expedition. We brought a big pile of

equipment: several notebooks, RBGan, video cameras, web-cameras. Right now we are adjusting all this: one of  the notebooks  broke down.

We are designing a wooden toilet - first in the history of Everest expeditions.

This year there are about 30 expeditions from Tibet side. And ours is going to be on of the largest. Alex

 

In seasons 2003 and 2004 Russian Adventure Team organized 2 successful commercial expeditions on Everest from Tibet side. Based on the last 2 years' experience, RAT is launching another Everest expedition in spring 2005.

"Looks like people trust us, - says Alexander Abramov (Alex),  the founder and permanent leader of Russian Adventure Team Everest Expeditions   - and this year the list of participants is practically ready before the New Year.

 

Leaving Ktm for Tibet on 7-April

 

CLIMBING MEMBERS

NATIONALITY

CLIMBING SHERPAS

1

Mr. Abramov Alexander 

Russian

Mr. Mingma Gelu Sherpa

2

Mr. Chernyy Nikolay

Russian

Mr. Pemba Tenjing Sherpa

3

Mr. Taydokov Yury Russian

Mr. Lakcha Sange Sherpa

4

Mr. Dusharin Ivan  Russian

Mr. Pasang Dorchi Sherpa

5

Mr. Moskalev Dmitry Russian

Mr. Pasang Tenje Sherpa

6

Mr. Kaymachnikov Sergey Russian

Mr. Pemba Nurbu Sherpa

7

Mr. Lakovenko Alexandre Russian

Mr. Rinjen Sherpa

8

Mr. Skaller Grigory Russian

Mr. Mingma Nuru Sherpa

9

Mr. Ovasapyan Karo Russian

Mr. Pasang Sherpa

10

Mr. Lande Vladimir Russian

Mr. Ngima Dorchi Sherpa

11

Mr.Pokhvalin Igor

Ukraine

Mr. Mingma Dorjee Sherpa

12

Mr.Ulph Robert British

 

13

Mr.Hanna Noel Richmond  British

 

14

Mr. Stark Lynne Patricia British

 

15

Mr. Gariano Lorenzo British

 

16

Mr. Lihteneker Marko Slovenian

 

17

Mr. Mlinar Viktor Slovenian

 

18

Mr. Christiana John Thomas USA 

 

19

Mr. Wilde James Dewitt USA

 

20

Mr. Schneider Nathaniel Raymond USA

 

21

Mr. Kikstra Klaas Harm Netherlands

 

Three members  - Abramov Alexander (leader), Cherny Nikolay (guide), Selivanov Andrey (expedition doctor) started March 27 for Katmandu. They will arrive in Nepal several days ahead of the rest of the team to do all the necessary preparations for the expedition. The other expedition members will gather in Katmandu between March 31 and April 7.

After that the expedition will start for Tibet.

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