(expedition leader) reports from Everest ABC (6300m), Tibet.
April 24: Yesterday a lot of
thing happened. First, we opened our camp, Tibet monks came for the
opening procedure. Jakovenko Sasha and 2 Slovenians (Victor and Marco)
descended from a night on the North Col, tired but happy. It started
snowing in the evening, snow covered the entire ABC.
Noel possibly has got an
eye hemorrhage. So he together with his girlfriend Lynn and personal guide
Harry descended to BC. I told him to stay there for 2 days and if there is
still no positive progress, descend to Zangmu. Yesterday we also divided
Sherpas among the members - it was fun.
We prepared all the
foodstuffs for the North Col and oxygen bottles - 270kg all in all. Today
Sherpas will start carrying loads. The only thing is that it had been
snowing the whole night and there is avalanche danger. And happy Birthday
to Yura Taidakov!! He will turn 50 on April 25. We ordered water-melons
and six sheep. There will be a big party in BC, it's a shame I am in ABC.
April 25: Today is April
25 - Yura Taidakov's birthday. Gold jubilee. Happy Birthday!!
Today Robert Ulph went
with Mingma and Norbu Sherpas to the North Col to stay there for 1 night.
Today our Sherpas finished putting up our North Col Camp: they put up 6
tents, brought 15 sleeping bags, etc.
Tomorrow they are moving
to 7700m. And in 2 days more they are going to put up Camp at 7700m.
Before May 1 we are planning to have 6 tents put up on the North Col, 5
tents - at 7700m and some loads will have been brought to the last Camp at
The point is that strong
wind start blowing in early May and it is impossible to reach high camps
till May 10. So from May 1 till May 10 we are planning good rest, and by
this time all expedition members will be well-acclimatized at 7000m.
Today only me and Gariano
Lorenzo are in ABC. Our Sherpas are working perfectly - they brought more
than 300kg of expedition loads to the North Col. Today 2 of our Sherpas
went to 8300m to help put fixed ropes above 8300m and up to almost Second
Step. We are making pretty good progress.