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  Mt. Everest 2005: 7 Summits Club: updates


 

May, 14. Expedition of the " 7-Summits Club " plans  climb  the summit of Everest  in any case, not looking on weather and other reasons.

Today two Slovenes Маrко and Victor, and also doctor Andrey Selivanov, have left upwards, after the first group. The first group today has risen in АВС.  Yesterday James Wilde went quite slowly, coughed, there were suspicions, that it may be a pneumonia. Today Andrey should examine James in the evening and make  medical conclusion. They should solve how to be farther: to go down in base camp or to continue an ascent. James is a partner of Karo Ovasapian, they  are friends and go together. Tomorrow we plan an exit of the last six person (Alexander Abramov, Dmitry Moskalev, Nathan Shneider,  John Christiana, Lorenzo Gariano and Robert Ulf).  

Also tomorrow Noel and Lynn leave, in 7 mornings. We shall see off them.

Wind very strong, both in base camp, and in АВС.

Today, Sherpas have climbed in the second camp, have brought oxygen, now there are 64 cylinders. 27 cylinders are in the last  camp 8300, and 8 more cylinders are on North Col. Now we want to be provided completely all for ABC camp. We send tomorrow the next 4 cylinders of gas, on yaks. Also we lift more products: hens, rams whom we recently have bought in Tashizong, we want to lift there a pork leg.  Everything - for the nearest two weeks.

Now the wind blows quite strong  and the forecast for the nearest 5-6 days unfavorable. Though the wind gradually abates, I think, that somewhere to a full moon, to 23rd of May, the wind will be still, and everyone will go upward. All expeditions  which now sit in АВС will start to climb.  

Expedition  7-Summits Club to climb the summit of Everest in any case, not looking on weather and other reasons. We shall be in area ABC and the high camps until there will come good weather even if it will be in June. Expedition  plans to work down to a successful ascent, not looking on weather and formal terms of expedition. If it is required, we shall be in base camp down to June.

MAY 15TH: The wounded leader of expedition 7-Summits-club plans to climb Everest with his clients.

Alexander Abramov, the leader of expedition in which 18 clients and 13 sherpas work now, plans to climb with the clients on the  top of  Everest. We want to remind, that one month ago, in middle of April, Alexander and his friend  have undergone to an attack of maoists. They have thrown  a  bomb in their machine. It happened on road to border of Tibet. As a result of explosion at Alexander appeared more than ten fine splinters  in legs. Not wishing to leave the team, Alexander has refused operation in Katmandu. He has arrived to base camp to continue a management of the expedition. Because of wound Alexander till now did not rise above АВС. But, in the near future he plans to climb with a command on top of  Everest.

 "I should justify hopes of the clients which have paid to me money. I shall make everything that the maximum quantity of participants has reached the top. I am sure, that my participation in an ascent will rise the spirit of a team. I have experience of four expeditions, in the last year I was at top. And I hope, that it will be possible to me to climb the  top again.  I already think of the following expedition, 2006, already 4 clients have paid participation in it".

Friends of Alexander, his  wife and three children try to convince him to refuse an ascent, ask him to not go above АВС. Nevertheless, Alexander has decided to try this year climb on top of  Everest. He considers, that his  state of health will allow him to climb. Alexander said that his  conditions are normal. Only in the mornings, when he wakes up, there are spasms in his legs in those places where there are splinters a little. But within day all comes in norm.

The chronicle May, 15.

Today, at 7 in the  morning,  Noel  and Lynn have left for Katmandu. Now the climbing team consists of  18 person. 12 person are in АВС now, 6 more person go upwards and  will spend next night in the Middle Camp (Alexander Abramov, Dmitry Moskalev, Nathan Shneider,  John Christiana, Lorenzo Gariano and Robert Ulf).  

 Tomorrow all of them plan to rise upwards. After that, under our plan, the Middle Camp  will be removed. Tomorrow all Sherpas from АВС leave on North Col. The day after tomorrow they plan to climb in  camp-3, on 8300 meters, to supply  everything, that it is necessary for an ascent. After that we hope, that everything will be ready. And in 2-3 days the team can atert the climb. We shall go by two groups. The first will be under leadership of Nikolay Cherny  (9 members + 6 шерпов), the second - leader Abramov(also 9 members + 6). The weather is more - less normal now. It is clear, the strong wind blows, but it should  ceased gradually.

May, 13.

1 Nikolay Cherny

2 Jury Tajdakov

3 Ivan Dusharin

4 Sacha Yakovenko

5 Grigory Skaller

6 Karo Ovasapyan

7 James Wilde

8 Vladimir Lande

9 Igor Pohvalin

10 Sherpa Pasang Dorji

11 Sherpa Mingma Forche

12 Sherpa Pemba (Karo*James)

13 Mingma Gelu Sherpa

14 Pasang Temba

15 Sherpa Goldjin

May, 15.

1 Alexander Abramov

2 Klaas Harm Kikstra

3 Dmitry Moskalyov

4 John Thomas Christiana

5 Nathaniel Raymond Schneider

6 Lorenzo Gariano

7 Robert Ulph

8 Marko Lihteneker

9 VIKTOR MLINAR

10 Sherpa Lakcha (Noel*Lynne)

11 Sherpa Rengin (John)

12 Sherpa Nima Dorji (Nathan)

13 Sherpa Mingma Nurbu (Robert)

14 Pemba Rengin

15 Pemba Nurbu

 

Korobeshko Ludmila

AlpIndustria Adventure team Project

Previous Update

In seasons 2003 and 2004 Russian Adventure Team organized 2 successful commercial expeditions on Everest from Tibet side. Based on the last 2 years' experience, RAT is launching another Everest expedition in spring 2005.

"Looks like people trust us, - says Alexander Abramov (Alex),  the founder and permanent leader of Russian Adventure Team Everest Expeditions   - and this year the list of participants is practically ready before the New Year.

 

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