The full Russian report complete and unedited,
please see the note at the end.
Alex Abramov by phone from
the ABC camp. In the morning.
Now all our team is in АВС. Except, Sasha Yakovenko and Nikolay Cherny
that have gone down to displace the Middle Camp. Now we have left only one
kitchen tent at height of 5800 m and two tents, in which two sleeping bags
left. Igor Pohvalin has gone down to the base camp. It considers, that
long time to be at height 6500м is harmful to an organism. He has decided
to go down for 2-3 nights in base camp. With him, Ivan Dusharin went down,
because his back was ill. All others were in camp ABC. Yesterday leaders
of other expedition came in our camp. There were representatives of
Norwegian expedition, two Indian expeditions, expedition “Monterosa” and
for short time David Hamilton from Jagged Globe. All are worried about
promised fix ropes that are not arranged yet. Under an agreement with
Russell it should be fixed up to top of the Second step. Leaders of these
expeditions have offered us to become the fourth expedition which will go
in the forefront and will detach Sherpas for fixed ropes.
We have been trying to
find Russell Brice which now is in Middle Camp. Also we have decided, that
today a meeting at 4 will be held. We want to invite leaders of all
expeditions. All are worried about the weather forecast. Forecasts are
Later, after meeting.
Today morning Vladimir
Lande has gone up the North Col and started an ascent. Later two Slovene
climbers Marko and Victor also have decided to leave on an ascent. On the
North Col also there are Andrey Selivanov and Grigory Skaller. But their
plans is simply high-altitude acclimatization. Since morning the weather
was not the best. But forecasts promise 4 days of quite good conditions.
Tomorrow (May, 19) Dyma Moskalev, Sasha Yakovenko, Harry Kikstra and
Lorenzo Gariano, also will go upward. Three other expeditions (Norwegian
and two Indian) also plan a start of climb. Nevertheless, there are no
fix-ropes up to the Second Step yet. Today the meeting which was initiated
by those expeditions which want to leave earlier was held. Except for
these expeditions, many participants from other expeditions want to begin
climb in the near future. And some of them have already left on North Col.
At meeting we discussed a
question of termination of an arranging of a route and some financial
questions. In a result it was solved, that 4 expeditions which are going
to leave today - tomorrow became responsible for final fixing of ropes. It
was solved, that the money collected for this purpose will be given to
Sherpas which will fix ropes. In result, tomorrow 4 Sherpas will leave on
North Col and next day on 8300 m. They plan to fix ropes up to the top of
the Second step. Also it is possible, that tomorrow Nikolay Cherny will
climb to the North Col. The weather is quite unstable. " A Window" seems
unstable, duration of it will take maximum 4 days. And that is not clear,
this is “a window” or simply a small decrease of wind.
Today our Sherpas have
done big work. Yesterday they have climbed on the Col, then after have
spent a night, today they have climbed up to height of 8300 meters. They
have brought in the storm camp 40 cylinders of oxygen, sleeping bags,
tents. Today they have gone down, very much tired. Nevertheless, one of
them has agreed to go with Vladimir Linde on an ascent. Tomorrow at 10
morning, Lande with his individual high-altitude porter will go to camp 2
Our Sherpas are great !
Thank them, thanks to the Sirdar Mingma !
AlpIndustria Adventure team Project
[When we received this
report we were confused as to who the 4 expeditions were and the 4 Sherpas
were. We have asked for more detail. Since that time the
Vojvodinian expedition "Everest 2005" has reported May 19th ABC (6400 m) 11.00
AM: Yesterday (18.00 PM Local
Time) it was meeting in ABC and it was making not agreement about nothing. One
hour later it was meeting again but in Russian agency Seven Summit. There were
members of expeditions from China, Norway, India's military (two teams) and
Vojvodina (Former Yugoslavia). They agreed that four men from China, Norway,
and the Indian Army team will fix the ropes from today (May 19th) to Saturday
(May 21st). For the full story
from them see here. We have not heard back from the Russians yet. ]