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  Mt. Everest 2005: 7 Summits Club: Moved up

 

Update: Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABС (6500м).

Today, May, 27, the first team has started: 8  Members  and 7 Sherpas. Now, at 7 p.m., all 15 person have climbed  the camp on the North Col. So all goes under the plan. Tomorrow all of them should rise in camp of 7700 meters where also they will overnight. Physical conditions of members of a team are  different, and it is possible, that someone will finished  climb on the Col.  The second team (7 participants and 5 шерпов) has decided to leave not  tomorrow, and the day after tomorrow. A planned day of an ascent, May, 31, the weather is predicted bad. Thus, the second team plans to reach the summit on June, 1, when weather forecast will be good.

Update: Two groups  are formed for the final attempt.

Today, May, 26, the weather continues to remain bad, the wind at top reaches 30 meters per one second. The nearest three days weather forecasters promise sharp decrease of wind, up to 10 meters per one second. And using this chance, May, 27 the first our group will  start and May, 28 the second group will start on climb. Nikolay Cherny leads the First group, in it 8 Members and 7 Sherpas, including  Sirdar Mingma. Alexander Abramov heads the second group, in it -  7 Members and 5 Sherpas. Under the plan, three Sherpas from the first group should remain after an ascent in camp of 8300 meters. It will be made for secure of the second group.

Group 1: James Wilde, Karo Ovasapyan, Alexander Jakovenko, Igor Pohvalin, Grigory Skaller, Ivan Dusharin, Jury Tajdakov.

Group  2: Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo Gariano, Natan Schneider, Harm Kikstra, John Christiana, Robert Ulf..

Vladimir Lande, who participated in events May, 21, is already in Moscow. All other Members are in preparation. About half of expeditions which are now in АВС, have the same plan, as our expedition. With an ascent 30 and May, 31. It is not so good. Experience of 2003 when in one day ascended 120 person, shows, that because of  queue on the Second Step it is possible not have time to reach the  top.

It is now hearing handbells. That Yaks  approach for evacuation of one of expeditions. Expeditions have already started to go down from camp AВС.  I think, that the nearest three days some more expeditions will be removed and will leave home.

Norwegian expedition, and also a part of expedition Monterosa climbed North Col today with the purpose of an ascent right at the beginning of good weather (May, 29) .

Long stay at height 6500м, certainly, provided  an bad effect on  conditions of members. Already the second week of expectation of weather practically comes to an end. It is certainly hard  for an organism. I hope, that  we could  overcome  physical strengths, and  moral - strong-willed spirit help us to win. We could reach the summit and go down alive and healthy.

How many climbers are on northern side of the Everest? Brice has told, that he has collected on fixing ropes 17 thousand dollars. It means, that 170 persons have handed over on 100 dollars. And approximately 150-170 climbing Sherpas are here. So it is possible to assume, that for 2 days on the slopes of Everest there will be from 200 up to 300 climbers. It will be a chaos on May, 30-31. Plus  hundreds climbers from the South. These days on the highest point  it will  be no free places! The queue in area of the top can be formed simply to be photographed.

The leader of the 7 Summits Club expedition: Alex Abramov.

Previous Update

In seasons 2003 and 2004 Russian Adventure Team organized 2 successful commercial expeditions on Everest from Tibet side. Based on the last 2 years' experience, RAT is launching another Everest expedition in spring 2005.

"Looks like people trust us, - says Alexander Abramov (Alex),  the founder and permanent leader of Russian Adventure Team Everest Expeditions   - and this year the list of participants is practically ready before the New Year.

 

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