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Update: Alexander Abramov from the camp 3 at height of
8300 meters. Now all have risen in camp, except for Robert Ulph and his
personal porter, that turned back. Now here are 10 persons: 6 Members and
4 Sherpas. In one tent Abramov and Moskalev, we sit, we breathe oxygen. In
other tents: Lorenzo, Harry with individual guides, then John and Natan,
also with the guides. Weather does not please, strong wind … .Snow, a
storm. Whether to leave, or to sit, or to go down. The first group goes
down very slowly. Only Yakovenko, and probably, doctor Igor Pohvalin had
reached camp АВС. And other six person are still on mountain. Uncle Kolja
on North Col. And Yura Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller, they
will spend the night in camp on 7700 m. Каrо and James are already in the
base camp. Such is the situation.
Tomorrow we shall try. An exit - at one o'clock, so you
will not leave work yet, and we already will start to climb. So long!
Update: Hello EverestNews.com:
Today, May, 30, seven
Members and six high-altitude porters (Sherpas) from the 7 Summits Club
expedition successful climbed the summit of Mount Everest. The first,
about 7 mornings, has risen Karo Ovasapian, in half an hour - Alexander
Jakovenko, behind him - Nikolay Cherny. Then Igor Pohvalin from
Crimea. Jury Tajdakov, Ivan Dusharin and Grigory Skaller have risen a
bit later. Six Sherpas have reached the top witn his members, led by
Sirdar Mingma (at him it is 4th ascent).
We
would like to note Nikolay Cherny success, first time trying to make
an ascent during the first Soviet Everest expedition in 1982. We
congratulate him ! We are proud to be his partners and we note, that
the success was held in our expedition. Now on the high slopes of
Everest the weather has deteriorated, but to this moment all
participants of an ascent have gone down in camp at height of 8300
meters. The majority of them will spend the night there. Only Каrо
together with his individual Sherpa has decided to go down in АВС.
Tomorrow the second group will climb from 7700 m up to 8300 meters. As
well as it was planned, in it there will be 12 person.
Update:
Alexander Abramov by the
phone from camp ABC (6500meters).
The weather
forecast is constantly displaced for 1-2 days. Still yesterday it seemed
to us, that June, 1 there will be a good weather. Under today's forecasts
it is clear, that June, 1 there will be not a best day for an ascent. The
best conditions will be June, 2-3. But it is already impossible to choose.
We hear last days constantly: that good weather, bad …. Now the first
group led by Nikolay Сherny is at camp of 7700 meters. They inform, that
the strong wind blows. The wind tears tents while, fortunately, has not
broken off. What the second team will to do tomorrow, finally have not
decided. But we hope, that we shall go upwards under the plan. We plan to
leave right after breakfast. Today there was a general meeting, we have
discussed all details, have agreed cooperation with Sherpas.
Yesterday one or two
Japanese with two Sherpas have successfully climbed Everest. Today one
Japanese climber has gone down in АВС, his nose is black color, it is
frost-bitten. Tomorrow many expeditions will start from ABC camp with us.
Wait for next messages ….
Group 1: James Wilde,
Karo Ovasapyan, Alexander Jakovenko, Igor Pohvalin, Grigory Skaller, Ivan
Dusharin, Jury Tajdakov.
Group 2: Dmitry Moskalev,
Lorenzo Gariano, Natan Schneider, Harm Kikstra, John Christiana, Robert
Ulf..
The leader of the 7
Summits Club expedition: Alex Abramov.
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