Alex Abramov by telephone
from ABC: (unedited)
Later:17:30 local time.
Dmitry Moskalev has climbed the top at 8:30. On descent he has met John
Christiana and his Sherpa Renji. They have risen on top about one o'clock
in the afternoon. Later he has met Harry Kikstra and his Sherpa Lakcha,
they also continued climb. Till now we have no information, whether Harry
have reached the summit. There was no radio communication with them during
whole day, though all members and Sherpas are supplied radio stations. At
one o'clock Lorenzo Gariano came on communication. He has informed, that
he is in camp of 7700 m. During an ascent, on the Second step, he (as he
said) « has lost eyesight ». We do not know precisely, what it means. In
any case, Lorenzo has managed independently gone down in camp 2 on 7700
meters. Probably, he has just frozen eyes, because of a strong wind. We
have sent Sherpa Nima which has quickly risen in camp of 7700 m. Now they
begin descent downwards, they promise to go down up to camp ABC. Now
Sherpa Mingma Norbu which we have left of 8300 m in camp to wait for the
two climbers Harry and Lakcha, has informed, that sees them at height
8500м. Whether has had been Harry on top whether not, we do not know. We
hope for the best, also we hope, that they will have time to go down in
camp 3 up to darkness. Unfortunately, in camp 3 there is only one cylinder
of oxygen. It will be heavy night for three person. It will be their third
night at this height.
Alex Abramov by telephone
Today, June, 2, at 8:45
local time, Dmitry Moskalev has informed, that he stands at the top of the
world. Sherpa Mingma Norbu has climbed the summit of Everest with him. On
a distance about one hour from it, Harry Kikstra from Holland, an American
John Christiana and two Sherpas Renji and Larcha. Lorenzo Gariano is also
near to top. Such information - on 9 o'clock in the morning local time.
The weather is clear, but a strong wind blows. Nevertheless, today many
sportsmen from different expeditions have reached the top. We shall wait
for descent of our comrades and on it to finish expedition.
Alex Abramov from the ABC
camp: Today there was awful night. We, the big company, 10 persons, spent
the night on 8300 m. The tent jumped and skipped under a pressure of a
wind. I on a portable radio set transferred the information in other tents
that we do not leave, neither at one o'clock, nor per three ….. Today,
when we began to count oxygen, appeared, that for night we have spent 10
cylinders. Everyone were adjusted to go downwards as on everyone remained
on 2 cylinders, that it is not enough. To give guys chance we have made
the strong-willed decision. I, as former already at top, Натан and it(him)
шерп Downwards. Yesterday Nathan has received small frost-bitten of
fingers. As we have found out, this day there was only one climbing group,
it seems, Brazilians. They have reached the Second step and were forced to
come back. On 8300 m there was our good friend Lapka Sherpa planning the
fifth ascension. However she also has not left. [Her brother is their
sirdir, her other brother summited with group 1, etc...]
We started downwards,
leaving necessary amount of oxygen to the four (Dmitry Moskalev, Lorenzo
Gariano, Harry Kikstra and John Christiana). They are going to make an
attempt tomorrow. I, Nathan and his Sherpa, have started to go downwards
at 10 a.m..
Weather forecast for
tomorrow: the same as for today. But now, to the evening, clouds
have dispersed. We have agreed, that if the weather will be bad, guys go
downwards since morning. Robert Ulf, which else hoped to join Summiters,
has turned downwards. Alexander Abramov,
Nathaniel Schneider and
his Sherpa stay in АВС now. The first group left from АВС and, probably,
all of them already are in base camp. Tomorrow in 7 mornings there should
be a jeep. They have tickets to Moscow for June, 4, for morning. They
could appear in Moscow in 4-th evening. All, except for Nikolay Cherny
who will help the leader to collect and pack am expedition equipment.
Nikolay is now in "Middle Camp", he feels good.
Once again our
congratulations him with remarkable success! We have changed our tickets
for June, 10. And I hope, that half-Moscow will come to meet and be
pleased for him!
The leader of the 7
Summits Club expedition: Alex Abramov.