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  Mt. Everest 2005: Marko Lihteneker's oxygen problems....


 

Update: The details of Marko Lihteneker who died on Everest are slowing coming together. Two climbers have confirmed seeing Marko with oxygen problems. The details of his oxygen problem is still unclear at this point. But oxygen systems fail regularly on Everest. According to climbers on the mountain with Marko, he did not have another bottle with him. He had left the other bottle at a spot lower on the mountain to pick it up when he descended. Marko also did not have a Sherpa. Marko was seen trying to work on this oxygen system at the spot where the Chinese found him on their way to the summit a few days ago. It was unclear if Marko was going up or down. Another climber at one point attempted to give Marko tea but by that time he could not drink... "He was to far gone..."

Marko was a member of 7 Summits Club Expedition.

We have been talking with Abramov Alexander, Leader of 7 summits club expedition, about what happened. Today he sent us the following letter which is unedited except corrected spelling in some cases..

 

Dear  EverestNews, If you wish you can publish my letter

I think it will be useful  for many Everest climbers.

 

Yes ,we use "POISK " o2. I have boute [bought] all bottles, mask, regulators just new from "POISK" factory in Russia from Maksimov Andrey. I am sure that reason is not in quality  of o2 but in case that o2 finished at normal way and climbers not control well the oxygen volume .

 

Viktor and Marko started 03;30 from 8300. Victor reported from summit at 12;30 At 13;00-13:30 Viktor meet Marko, who was in 1 hour to summit, so Marko reach summit about 14;30 and begin go down about 15;00 Normally people climb to 2- step about 4 hours, and near this place change 1-st bottle to fool second. If you breathe 2l per minutes all yours 02 should finish in 8 hours.

 

Try count: Normally pressure in Poisk bottle is 250-260 atmosphere. It meaning that 4l bottle consist about 1000 littre 02. If you use 2l per minute you have 500 minutes before your oxygen finish! 500/60 =  8,33 ( 8 hour 20 minutes)

 

Before ascent me and all team descuse not one time, that after 2-d step you can go up to summit not more then 5 hours, because you need  2,5-3,0 hours for descend to 2-nd step, so totally 8 hours.

As we see in Marko case hi climb from 2-d step to summit from 7;00 - 7,30  till 14;30 -15;00 (minimum 7 and maximum 8 hours). Of course, his 02 finishing not far from summit...

 

I hope situation will cleaning [clear] after our team will reach Marko and check his 02 equipment. It can happen in 30 May

 

Best regards

Abramov Alexander

Leader of 7 summits club

Our thoughts and prayers go out to Marko's family.

Previous Update

In seasons 2003 and 2004 Russian Adventure Team organized 2 successful commercial expeditions on Everest from Tibet side. Based on the last 2 years' experience, RAT is launching another Everest expedition in spring 2005.

"Looks like people trust us, - says Alexander Abramov (Alex),  the founder and permanent leader of Russian Adventure Team Everest Expeditions   - and this year the list of participants is practically ready before the New Year.

 

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