Mt. Everest 2005: Vojvodina Everest Expedition 2005: Putting in fixed rope and adding old updates

Update:  The newest Vojvodinean Expedition report is:

We are at camp C1 (7042m) at April 22. The morning has been with very strong wind at the bottom of the rock of North Saddle. Excluding of 500 m security ropes we have put and 10 m aluminum ladder above abyss. The most problems are vertical frozen rock and the very hard glacier.

The snow has started in the afternoon. On the North Saddle at 7042 m we come in the evening. The tents have been buried about 1 m deep because of the very strong wind.

Our plan is to go back to the ABC (6400 m) to rest for a couple days tomorrow (April 23). After that we will then continue our rise to camp C2 (7500 m).

Best regards of team from Panonia

Many older updates are below, note the translations are rough...

Starting: Date: 26.03.2005 – 9.16 am

News: Vojvodinean expedition Everest 2005 will start at March 28th 2005, (Monday) at 8.00 am from Belgrade’s airport.

We are starting, finally Date: 27.03.2005 – 4.22 pm

News: So, we are starting to the Everest, finally! In front of us is northern reef (crag) of the highest peak. Basecamp at 6400 m and 45 days living in it. But in front of us is POSSIBILITY which is not to close other mountain climbers of Serbia. Beyond us is experience which has to help us. In front of us are most beautiful and most dangerous mountain of the world. In front of us is endless of snow white and we are without breath. But we have a big goal: come down from peak of Sagarmatha, Chomolungma or Mount Everest! Our best friends and all the people who help us to prepare will be with us. That will be our single one hope in the days of unbearable loneliness. It is seven of us (and 3 Sherpa more) and we will be all to each others in the world. Everyone from us is hoping in him and we mean that everyone will be really in it. Our Sherpa Dawa and Kami are our friends and our hope, too.  We are having hope in good luck; we have to have it because we were working hard to prepare this possibility. Maybe, we will not be successful. Not at all is asking for it. If something will be impossible for us, we will abandon. But we will try, hardly try.

Miodrag Jovovich, leader of expedition

Our first days in Katmandu: Date: 30.03.2005. 4.48 pm

All the day we are running for the equipment because we have to leave Katmandu as soon as is possible. On the big board the Maoists wrote: The way to Tibet’s border is free to the 3rd of April.

Yet, we have about 4.000 kg of equipment but we are planning to complete it tomorrow. It will be about 5 tones!

All of us are well. Just in one day we are burning in the sun.

Nyalam – Tibet Date:  04.04.2005. - 7:11 am

Early morning 2nd of April we depart Katmandu. The day before we celebrated ending of preparing and Hose’s birthday, too (it was some bottles of beer only). The way to the Chinese border is more different and safer than in autumn 2004th. Some days before we start in Belgrade, some magazines wrote that rebellionists take their arms on airport, too. The journey was nearly comfortable it was no dust because Himalayan's snow is on the top yet and low mountains on Nepal’s side are dry. We were safe because rebellionists are warning about tourism too. They announced that the way to Chinese border will be blocked at April the 3rd. Do they do it? We don’t know.

The Diary: Kodari (Chinese border): It is well-known place. The goods are coming from China, from Nepal are coming people: many who like adventures, mountain climbers, man with bike from Denmark… Border stuff nice on European way, we are passing throw without problems. We took rooms in pretty nice hotel in Zhangmu. Bathrooms! And washing of the dust. Zhangmu is pretty little town on Himalaya, hearth of life is marketing with Nepal. Little walking and introducing other passengers. All of us are going on Everest. Our neigh borough’s from Romania goal is Shisha Pangma and we told them our last autumn’s experience. Chow Oyo ... Supper at Chinese-restaur ant. Sticks, chilly food, hungry mount climbers and problems. Andor try to eat with sticks like with the spoon but it is difficult. Goran like the same. Milivoj is old-fashion Vojvodinean man and he is striking. Iso and Hose are good in eating on Chinese way. Dule and I take a food with little spoons. I am too old to teach something new and Dule is too hungry to try with sticks.  Mainly, our stomachs are full of something and we don’t know what it was. In the morning, all of us told each other that sleep well and dreams were nice. It is mountain 2350 m high. At 11.00 am we are starting to Nyalam.  In two trucks are 12 people. Government officer is with us.

Nyalam / 3750m. We arrived at 2.00 pm… The entire journey we made jokes with Dule who is here the first time. The jokes are preparing for the hard job of climbing northern side of Himalaya…

Hotel “Snow Land”. Oh, my God, the people names hotel such of thing! But we were here last autumn. And prepare for acclimatization immediately (Walking hard to 4100 m peak and slowly down). It is OK for us, but our neigh burghs look like sleepy bears.

In “hotel” we meet Munsh, Denmark biker wee met at border. Hi is young professor with asthma and he is mountain biker one year ago. His girlfriend went with him to Katmandu. This is a couple!

Night without sleeping, it is high. Breakfast in the morning and acclimatization again (4350 m). I said that Sherpas and cooker have to go, too. This walking is good for us. For me is difficult because I am not prepared and have too much kilos. But I feel good.

All of us are well, too. It is 8th day of our expedition.

Miodrag Jovovich, leader of expedition

From leader’s of expedition diary

Date: 07.04.2005. – High-noon and 56 minutes NYALAM today

Little places in Himalaya have so nice names: Kodari, Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri… And all of them are so tempting for many people.
Some of them are here because ice-peaks are full of beauty. Some came here because life in Tibet and Buddhism are full of secrets.  Buddhism is much more than religion only. It is hearth of life.

I have to speak about Buddhism because something happened yesterday. The first thing is that Denmark young man with bike.

He has asthma and he is going to Everest without oxygen! 

It is question of human’s possibilities. The world is changing and the man is changing too because he took some from the nature. We born without shoes, but we still use them. We use all the advantages of modern life. Where is the end of it?
So, on Everest with oxygen or without – like Hillary?

But it’s mean nothing for our Denmark professor. With his asthma he had possibility to live some of little life in civilization. With many limitations. But he chooses Everest climbing, with his bike to the 5000 m. After that – by feet. Bravo!!! He is example for all of people with or without some disease. The second thing happened yesterday evening. It was TV film “The Passion of Jesus Christ”.  It was movie full of brutality. Some of Tibetan young men were with us, and the movie was unexpected attack for theirs souls full of tolerances. They knew that it was film only, but they were shocked at brutality on the screen. They cried and yelled with any punch or kick. To the end of “performance” they became completely silent. I was amazed with those people who look at anybodies strange life with so much of understanding. Like I say it isn’t imagination. It isn’t, definitely. There is coming some of Finland, Czech, Spain… M. Jovovich

Chinese Base Camp Date: 10.04.2005. - 5:37am

After 30 km from Tingri to Lassa, we turned to glacier Rongbuk. It is completely new road (101 km) and it is build from Chinese Government. We spend 4 hours to the 5170 m on the beginning of glacier Rongbuk. Northern side of Everest is under cover of cloths. We have seen it yesterday evening. Night was to long and to hard. Almost all the night we have to hold our tents, because wind was 63 km/h and over. We stay in bets some hours longer than usually. All the day we are tightening with wind, snow and clothes. It is storm on Everest. Our neigh burghs from Czech Republic are trying to stand up their tent. Without success. We feel not good – we can not go out of tent nearly 24 hours. It is snow. temperature is -13 C. In some moments the wind is near 80 km/h. Iso is professor of geography and we ask him to measure the wind. Milivoj has smile on his face. The sun is rising at 10.30 am because we have a big stone on east of us. The sun shinning is signed to start up. There are no problems with technique yet. Our aggregate (“Robbie”) still works. “Striko” (uncle in English) – leader of expedition – worry on it. Food is delicious if I can say so. Yesterday evening we have had mushroom’s soup, pasta, some green vegetables, roast meet of Tibetan cow (“jak”) and salad.  And garlic and cheese from Serbia, of course. No matter what happened, we are going up!

Base Camp 10.04.2005. 05:57pm

The 3rd day at BC. The wind is hard and brings fresh air from Everest and Rongbuk glacier. In moments wind is over 90 km/h. Over 9 bofors said Iso, professor of geography. I decide it is right time to put on memorial of Zoran Miletic. Before that act I introduce myself with manners in BC. Government’s officer in BC were helpful to me. There are some memorial-place here in BC for monuments to all climbers who dye on Everest. Zoran’s company is Irvine and Mallory (Everest 1924) and many others. Zoran was my friend. Guys are shutting up, Works only. It is not suddenness between us. I won’t it. No suddenness for man who was always smiling. His last upsurge was “something he gives everything for it”. And he gave everything… 

I put Zoran’s memorial is on n/w side. In company with 3 Russian climbers. Good company. I said: “Rest in piece, my friend. Forgive us for all and us forgiven to you.” Today we heard that some of our friends lost her best friend. I can believe that Life and Death are so close. And you can not stop the Death. But the Life is persistent too. Let be the Life! Some good news: One girl has born! Hard birthing but she is good and every day is better. Strog Girl. Go on, my dear!

Leader of Expedition M. Jovovic

EVEREST BC, Sunday, 10.04 am – time for lunch (here is 3,30 pm)

”It is spring on your shoulder, here winter is still around and ice-voices are only sound” (some paraphrased song from Serbia) We are waiting for lunch in some kind of daily-room in green colour. Everybody is hoping the best. Milivoj: It have to be manner for Sunday – always soup, red sauce, some potatoes, fresh bread of white meal and meat of hen Micho: Cabbage by mom Lillian in the village. And some ham with potato. And “spricer” (half wino and half soda).  Andor: Everything like Milivoje, but more chicken-meat and vegetables. And mom’s and grandma’s pies. Iso: Some months ago he is preparing barbecue for his son. Not in backyard than in his apartment on 9th floor. It isn’t comfortable, but his town is down his feet. Goran: Strongly on professor’s way! Soup (beef’s) and domestic pasta. Some vegetables (with lives) in soup. Four pieces of chicken meat (one for each), some roast potatoes and red domestic wine. Big dish of salad and bread of integral meal. Hose: Pasta over all! Bolognese, Milanese, Carbonara… And Bosnian pies. Dule: He like strong food, some kind of bean and steaks with onion. And “tortellini” filled with cheese or meat. But, dreams, sweet dreams! We are going to Tibetans for “chang” and some heating.

Vojvodinean expedition Everest 2005

Advanced Base Camp (6400 m) Date: 26.04.2005. - 05:16 pm

it is 2nd day of rest in ABC (6400 m) before we come back at C1 where are two of our tents and fixed ropes. We prepare equipment for camps C2 (7510 m) and C3 (7750 m). We will start as soon as possible but whether isn’t good. These days, everyday in the afternoon, it is snowing and the wind is strong. 

There are six of us and we feel good. It is enough of food. We are talking about snow in Vojvodinean plane ground.

In BC again Date: 25.04.2005. - 05:17pm
I arrived in BC (5170 m) and restore contact with climbers. They are in ABC (6400 m) and plane to go to C1 (7042) builded on April 22nd. I am bringing chargers for batteries but I don’t know if they are OK. In several next days we have to complete our team and try to restore our technique.

All in ABC feeling good. It is too cold but it is normally here.

In BC is too hustle, you can’t imagine it.

Miodrag Jovovich, leader of expedition

KATMANDU – before coming back at BC

Date: 22.04.2005. - 03:34pm
 

I have just heard with ABC (Milivoje). The news is different.

Good news:  Climbers are in C1 (about 7000 m), they are well. Connection is bad because clothes are all over the sky and it is black everywhere around. Bad news: Last charger (for satellite-phone) dies today! And our internet-connection goes over it! Here in KTM I found some kind of charger and I use it. The second charger is some kind offhand “machine” – we will see if it works (At the end of expedition somebody of us will be expert for electronics, I guess). If these offhand “machines” would make a job I know that God is with us! Milivoje have – I hope only – two of three batteries for his phone. I shall not imagine interrupting of connections with Serbia. But don’t be panic! We have to find any way to tell you “Hello!” The most important thing is: All of us are well! And we are going ahead! Tomorrow I shall go to Tibet. On my way I would read the web-news and e-mails. After Tingri we would have telephone only.  Our hope is our friend Aida in Novi Sad – she will put it on the web-site. I AM OPTIMIST! AND YOU?   They call us “Crazy Serbs” – it is many reasons for it.

Leader of expedition Micho Jovovich

Dispatches

Vojvodina is the northern province of Serbia and Montenegro. It is located in the heart of the Balkans in Southeast Europe. Although Vojvodina is flat, climbing has become a tradition. The first Vojvodina climber to scale Mont Blanc was in 1924, since then they have reached the summits of the highest peaks in South America, Asia, Europe and Australia. The only peak they are missing is Everest and they hope to climb to the summit in 2005.

The expedition is being organized by the Mountaineering Association of Vojvodina. The members of the team are as follows, Miodrag Jovovic, Milivoj Erdeljan, Goran Ferlan, Andor Luhovic, Mirjana Vasut, Mirjana Stevanovic, Iso Planic and Hoselito Bite.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot for Spring 2009 has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

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