Mt. Everest 2005: Alpine Ascents Everest 2005: sky so full of stars

Update: Everest BC
    
It’s 2:30 in the morning and a sky so full of stars as to be almost alien shines through the frigid 17,600-foot air. Our Sherpa cook staff have been up for a good hour already making preparations, and it is only guilt in this knowledge which rouses me from my warm cocoon of a sleeping bag as hot bed tea is served to us. Nervousness, excitement, fear, anticipation; emotions run the full gamut on this the morning of the first trip up through the Khumbu Icefall for the team. Well, most of the team. I will remain down as I am not yet healthy enough yet to challenge the altitudes of Camp 1 and the Western Cwm. And so, I have the luxury of observing the rest of the team and their preparations without the underlying tension which always precedes a trip through the Icefall.

The Khumbu Icefall. It is one of Earth’s most beautiful and otherworldly landscapes; also potentially one of the deadliest. It’s a love/hate relationship for all of us. Even for the Sherpas, this is never to be taken lightly. They are up with us to start a small fire of juniper here at base camp. This is considered to be an offering to the gods in supplication for safe passage through this awesome chaos of shattered ice blocks and crevasses. The sharp cracks, pops, and rumbles emanating from the living, moving Icefall, along with the occasional roar of ice avalanches (also termed “icefall”); are never more evident or foremost in our consciousness than the night before heading through this passage into the reaches of the upper mountain.

Now, as I write this, the first full round trip is complete, and all are veterans. Yesterday a very tired team returned to base camp from Camps 1 and 2. The harsh reality of eating, drinking, and breathing; of simply living at 21,500 feet has made its impression on all. Today, after a good and long night’s sleep in the “thick air” of Base Camp, and several good BC meals, all members are smiling, invigorated, and energized. This evening after dinner was filled with chess and hearts games, relaxing and listening to good music, and general good cheer. And thus begins the rest and recovery period in preparation for the second trip up mountain.

Sorry for the bit of delay in this dispatch. We’ll be sending more photos and information today.

Willi Prittie

Dispatches

Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge route.

GUIDE STAFF (BIOS)
Lakpa Rita Sherpa Senior Guide & Sirdar	Vern Tejas Senior Guide	Willi Prittie Senior Guide
Dave Morton Senior Guide	Jose Luis Peralvo Senior Guide	Ellie Henke Base Camp Manager
CLIMBERS
Nigel Clark	Esther Colwill	Ron Farb
Kevin Grant	Cathy Groninger	Kent Groninger
Mostafa Mahmoud	Jeanne Stawiecki	Dianette Strange-Wells
Tony Van Marken	David Liano	Danielle Fisher

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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