Mt. Everest 2005: Alpine Ascents Everest 2005: Camp Two

Update: Camp II
    
Greetings to all from a snowy afternoon at Camp 2. All expedition members are here together for the first time in a while, even yours truly is now healthy and back with the whole group.

Most of the climbers came up from Camp 1 today, and were caught in a fast developing snow storm packing zero visibility out on the glacier and colder temperatures. The colder temperatures are at least are easier to deal with than the days when the furnice heat blasts into the solar oven of the Western Cwm. That said, it was obvious that several climbers needed momma nature's reminder about always carrying enough warm clothing for personal survival when when the weather turns sadistic (yes, even warm mitts and hats).

Meanwhile, Jean and I were already at Camp 2, mainly so that I could catch up on my acclimatization. We decided to head up to the Lhotse Face and challenge at least part of the hard steep ice and fixed lines above. Well, you know what the bard once said about the best laid plans of mice and men. . . The storm came in. Our descent through complete white-out became interesting when I lost the poorly marked trail and we had to follow a "handrail", in this case a small icefall to find the morrainal shelf which Camp 2 is located on. Momma Nature is always one to keep you on your toes. Thank goodness for compasses and topo maps!

Tomorrow will be a rest and acclimation day for the whole team here at 21,500 feet while many of our Sherpa staff head up to begin building our Camp 3 at around 23,700 or so feet part way up the huge icy face known as the Lhotse Face (Lhotse being the world's fourth highest mountain is of course right next to Everest and thus part of it's face is climbed en route to Everest).

As I write this, the storm is clearing, and a brief burst of alpenglow lights up the Goliath-sized peaks surrounding us here near the top of the Western Cwm (valley). I don't even bother to reach for my camera, the beauty is simply too stunning. . .

Willi Prittie

Dispatches

Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge route.

GUIDE STAFF (BIOS)
Lakpa Rita Sherpa Senior Guide & Sirdar	Vern Tejas Senior Guide	Willi Prittie Senior Guide
Dave Morton Senior Guide	Jose Luis Peralvo Senior Guide	Ellie Henke Base Camp Manager
CLIMBERS
Nigel Clark	Esther Colwill	Ron Farb
Kevin Grant	Cathy Groninger	Kent Groninger
Mostafa Mahmoud	Jeanne Stawiecki	Dianette Strange-Wells
Tony Van Marken	David Liano	Danielle Fisher

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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