May 15 Everest BC
Hello friends, family and loved ones,
This is Oxygen day, the day we really focus on learning about proper breathing
technique and our oxygen delivery systems. This morning everyone selected an
oxygen mask that properly fit their particular face. Then we labeled them with
our names so as not to lose them and also so we can identify each other on
summit day. You can imagine with mask, ski goggles and big down suits it’s
very difficult to know who you are climbing with. Name tags save a lot of
confusion. We discussed the function of the mask and how to attach it to the
regulator as well as correct way to install all onto our Russian oxygen
bottles. Then it was hands on practice time. Everyone learned to change out a
bottle and how to determine that it’s functioning properly. We all paid close
attention as our well being depends on this.
was filled with breathing class. Supplemental (bottle) oxygen has its limits.
It gives us a 3000 ft. advantage roughly. So we need something else to get us
to the top safely. All of us guides presented a seminar on how to breathe at
altitude. This was full of technique gleaned from our decades of doing this.
Then we practiced, we huffed and puffed and blew our dinning tent down. Before
it was over all team members were able to increase the oxygen levels of their
blood by 15%. Trust me, that’s a significant increase. Proper breathing really
is the key to climbing this mountain.
Yesterday we were invited to a concert at the base camp medical clinic.
Kristina, the doctor from the Czech team is a trained violinist and she wanted
to share with us some of her gift. I always carry my fiddle in the mountains
and was able to loan it to her for the performance. Talk about beautiful, that
woman can play. Vivaldi, Bach and Devorak were magnificent to listen to on a
crystalline day with the awe inspiring Nupste, Lhotse and Everest as a
backdrop. Then she broke into Gypsy tunes and I broke into tears as the crowd
broke into thunderous applause. It was a moving experience, a beautiful woman
making beautiful music on a beautiful day in the beautiful Himalayan
One Oxygen bottles contains 1200 liters of Os. At 2 liter per minute flow a
bottle should last for 10 hours.
Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave
Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent
team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.