Mt. Everest 2005: Alpine Ascents Everest 2005: Everest Base camp

Update: May 20, Everest Base Camp
    
Everest Base Camp, May 20

I recalled the entire expedition to Base Camp yesterday due to continued very low temperatures up high and continued strong winds, forecasted to increase significantly in the next few days. Winds as high as 80 knots and temperatures of -37 degrees are in the forecast. There is a group of Koreans and two British-based groups trying to sneak in a summit bid before the strongest of the winds in two days. We wish them well, but this morning, which was supposed to be lower winds, dawned very breezy here at Base Camp with obvious signs of high winds on all the peaks in view around Base Camp. I don’t think that I care to be in their places right now, especially as I watch a rapidly growing lenticular cloud cap engulfing the summit of Pumori. So, now we play the immensely unpopular and difficult expedition waiting game at Base Camp along with most of the other expeditions here and reportedly on the north side of the mountain as well.

Yesterday the whole crew moved down very well and made it back to Base in around five hours. A bit of excitement for everyone’s entertainment occurred when Dave Morton bent over to pick up the fixed rope to attach it to himself for crossing a ladder over a crevasse, and his radio promptly jumped out from his clothing and committed suicide in the crevasse. David, being very conscientious about such matters, decided to rappel into the crevasse to attempt a rescue. The crevasse, however, had other ideas, and so we temporarily have a radio-active glacier (at least until the batteries go dead).

My crystal ball says that we will be here at least three days before going up again, perhaps longer. The collective waiting and boredom at Base Camp has spawned some interesting group activities. A few days ago, Kristina, the doctor for the Czech Republic team and a concert violinist in another life, put on a concert at the “Himalayan Rescue Association Plaza”, a magician worked his stuff much to the delight of all the Sherpas in attendance, and three official government liaison officers got up and performed a song for all. There is much visiting of other camps, tea drinking (and some much stronger drink as well), socializing, and an upcoming swap meet back at the HRA Plaza while everyone waits. (Ellie is trying to figure out how she can swap her camp booties full of holes for a new pair; perhaps if she finds someone who has imbibed a bit too much of the much stronger drink?)

Meanwhile, Nigel eats, Danielle has set up quite a business repairing all the fixed line damage to everyone’s gloves, David entertains us with his book of Spanish language jokes, the chess board and decks of cards are being exercised, and Tony continues on his work of casting actors for our upcoming (imaginary) film production. . .

Willi Prittie

Dispatches

Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge route.

GUIDE STAFF (BIOS)
Lakpa Rita Sherpa Senior Guide & Sirdar	Vern Tejas Senior Guide	Willi Prittie Senior Guide
Dave Morton Senior Guide	Jose Luis Peralvo Senior Guide	Ellie Henke Base Camp Manager
CLIMBERS
Nigel Clark	Esther Colwill	Ron Farb
Kevin Grant	Cathy Groninger	Kent Groninger
Mostafa Mahmoud	Jeanne Stawiecki	Dianette Strange-Wells
Tony Van Marken	David Liano	Danielle Fisher

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