Mt. Everest 2005: Alpine Ascents Everest 2005: Teams turned this morning at the Balcony

Update: Everest BC
    
Yes, Namaste once again from BC!

Oh boy, what to say about today. This expedition is getting along in days and the group here is certainly aware of that. The highlight of the day today was the Bazaar held over at the “Med Tent Plaza”. Extra books, magazines, food, games, wine, beer were all gathered at the Medical Tent and exchanged for more desired items. Nearly all of the expedition teams are in BC due to the dismal weather forecasts so the event was really a time to get together and lament the weather more than anything. Not only was there the bartering but Mark Tucker, expedition leader of another team celebrated his bday today. The women from Brown University who are doing the NASA testing at altitude took it upon themselves to bake a tasty cake for Mark that was shared with all. As you can see from the photos Ellie got more than her fare share stuffed in her face in an impromptu “cake fight”.

Despite the poor outlook in the weather at the summit our group is hanging in there. The news that people had summited today from the Tibet side was greeted with mixed feelings. Everyone is pleased that somebody is getting to the top but of course wondering when and if our time will come. There is no question that this year is proving to be incredibly difficult and unusual. The south side still has no summits on this date of May 21. Two Korean teams sit at the South Col as I write this ready to make a push tonight. Teams turned this morning at the Balcony pushing the possible first summits back another day from this side. We cross our fingers for the Korean teams as the push up for the top as predicted high winds may arrive late in the day. We also have had contact with the large Chinese team sitting in high camp on the north side hoping to make the second day of summits from Tibet. Whatever happens with these teams will have little affect on our plans for returning up high. The forecast still offers no clear idea of when winds will start to decrease though there are possibilities. As of tonight our plan is to return to CII on the 23rd which would put us in position for an attempt on the 29th. This may all change tomorrow as we get another round of weather forecasts. Commitments from home are definitely now a factor and we hope not to lose members of our wonderful group- but know as things creep later that this is a real possibility.

This adventure has risks and one of those is the risk of having to return home without the satisfaction of standing on the summit. The pleasure of being in such a wild and high place is something that everyone appreciates but is rarely spoken of in conversation. The question of whether or not someone made the summit is an obvious one but says little about what the experience is all about. As potential departures come up we hope this truth isn’t lost.

We’ll be in touch soon.

All the best, Dave

Dispatches

Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge route.

GUIDE STAFF (BIOS)
Lakpa Rita Sherpa Senior Guide & Sirdar	Vern Tejas Senior Guide	Willi Prittie Senior Guide
Dave Morton Senior Guide	Jose Luis Peralvo Senior Guide	Ellie Henke Base Camp Manager
CLIMBERS
Nigel Clark	Esther Colwill	Ron Farb
Kevin Grant	Cathy Groninger	Kent Groninger
Mostafa Mahmoud	Jeanne Stawiecki	Dianette Strange-Wells
Tony Van Marken	David Liano	Danielle Fisher

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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