Mt. Everest 2005: Alpine Ascents Everest 2005: Emotionally draining

Update: May 27 Camp II
    
Namaste Everyone!

Well, it's been a very difficult day here at Camp II on Everest. Emotionally draining and disappointing for the team as a whole. We received weather forecasts that contradict our optimism of the last few days on our move up. It seems that Chomolungma is not ready to have climbers on her upper reaches.

These forecasts were the end of some of the team members' optimism and motivation. Therefore we are losing 3 teammates tomorrow morning that have decided to head back to BC and onward towards home. The reason for this is commitments at home as well as a general feeling that this season is just not 'the one'. The mountain has been unpredictable this season and Ron, Nigel and Kevin all feel it is the time to heed that message. Cathleen is already in BC waiting for us and Dianette and Jeanne are already home. That leaves 6 plus the guides to wait it out a few days more and see if something changes. As I sit in my tent with Lakpa Rita by my side we're both shocked at how loud the freight train winds are 8,000 ft. above our camp.

Vern, David and Kent are going to give Camp III a try tomorrow in part due to time constraints. The rest of us will wait and see if these temperamental winds ease up. We are so sorry to be losing Ron, Nigel and Kevin who really are an essential part of the heart of this team. This already is the most unique season in all of the Sherpa's memory and may turn out to be the season "Everest needed a rest". Though we still hope that our luck changes in the next couple of days.

Accepting the reality of this season and our chances of getting up gave everyone a chance to reflect on the experience this afternoon. There's much to be learned from these high places and the uncertainty of the outcomes here.

We will send an update tomorrow.

Thinking of you all back home.

All the best,
Dave

Dispatches

Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge route.

GUIDE STAFF (BIOS)
Lakpa Rita Sherpa Senior Guide & Sirdar	Vern Tejas Senior Guide	Willi Prittie Senior Guide
Dave Morton Senior Guide	Jose Luis Peralvo Senior Guide	Ellie Henke Base Camp Manager
CLIMBERS
Nigel Clark	Esther Colwill	Ron Farb
Kevin Grant	Cathy Groninger	Kent Groninger
Mostafa Mahmoud	Jeanne Stawiecki	Dianette Strange-Wells
Tony Van Marken	David Liano	Danielle Fisher

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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