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Update:
May 29 Camp II
Well, the hard-headed contingent are still here at Camp 2 waiting it out for
the (hopefully not) bitter end. Vernon Tejas and David Liano are pushing up to
Camp 4 at the South Col today after a good night at Camp 3. They report only
moderate winds, but just above all the climbers heading up today is a nature
photographers dream of bizarre lenticular cloud forms, always changing. These
types of clouds always mean high winds and bad weather. As the afternoon has
progressed, the winds have dropped and the clouds have dissipated and the
latest news is that they will attempt the summit tonight.
The rest of us will be headed up tomorrow to Camp 3 to follow in their trail.
Our primary weather forecast source, Michael Fegan, is very optimistic of
dropping winds for June 2 and 3. So, that is the final hope of getting a crack
at the summit for the rest of us. Beyond that date the warming temperatures at
Base Camp and above are going to make the Khumbu Icefall increasingly
dangerous, especially for our hardworking and dedicated Sherpa staff who will
be cleaning the mountain of our gear and garbage after us. Warming
temperatures mean ice and snow anchors melt out more quickly which makes the
fixed safety ropes and ladders we rely upon less reliable, not to mention the
increased risk of icefall (ice avalanche) as the glacier's movement speeds up
in response to warmer weather. We have established a firm end date of June 5
for everyone and everything to be back at Base Camp for this reason.
So, here we go. . .

Mostafa Mahoud
of Jordan has also left the expedition to head home. I decided that the risk
to his health from his developing stomach ulcer too great for him to remain at
high altitude any longer. We have a special note to King Abdullah of Jordan. I
would personally like to thank the Jordanian royal family (his sponsor), as
well as all the Jordanian people following his progress. Not only is Mostafa a
good climber and excellent team member, but he is a wonderful human being and
I feel privileged to now call him my friend. Mostafa: The mountain will always
be here; you just make sure you will be too.
Willi Prittie, May 29, Camp 2
Dispatches
Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave
Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent
team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge
route.
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