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  Mt. Everest 2005: Alpine Ascents Everest 2005: Camp 4


Update: June 1 Camp IV
    
Well Namaste once again!

I'm sitting on the South Col in my warm sleeping bag in the sun that has just come up. Esther and Danielle are next to me doing the same. We arrived here yesterday at around 4:30 pm after leaving Camp III at 9:30 am. The team is all in great spirits and at this point we are just hoping that we get some break in luck up here. The forecasts are once again calling for high winds but we're banking on an exception at this point.

Last night there were 3 teams in position to go to the summit yet we didn't get a let up in the winds for the entirety of the evening. The past couple of days have seen higher winds with many lenticular clouds over the summit and on the summits of surrounding high peaks. This morning we have high winds remaining but the skies are clear in all directions.

We'll spend the day here resting and taking SHORT walks around the Col. We'll be breathing oxygen on and off throughout the day as well.

We had word on the radio this morning that David and Vern were on their way back to BC. We had a nice visit with them between CIII and CIV yesterday.

There was also word this morning that there hadn't been info sent regarding our move up. We apologize for that.


 

The team here all sends our best to you out there and ask for your positive thoughts on the weather and our summit day. We'll try and give an update later.

All the best,
Dave

PS- The last photo is in loving memory of Gabriel Llano: heart and force of Ecuadorian guiding and climbing. Jose Luis hopes to do the same for him on the summit.

Dispatches

Vern Tejas, Willi Prittie, Dave Morton, Jose Luis Peralvo, and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will lead the Alpine Ascent team on Everest this Spring. They will attempt the standard South East ridge route.

GUIDE STAFF (BIOS)

Lakpa Rita Sherpa
Senior Guide & Sirdar

Vern Tejas
Senior Guide

Willi Prittie
Senior Guide

Dave Morton
Senior Guide

Jose Luis Peralvo
Senior Guide

Ellie Henke
Base Camp Manager
CLIMBERS

Nigel Clark

Esther Colwill

Ron Farb

Kevin Grant

Cathy Groninger

Kent Groninger

Mostafa Mahmoud

Jeanne Stawiecki

Dianette
Strange-Wells

Tony Van Marken

David Liano

Danielle Fisher
Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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