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  Mt. Everest 2005: Dirk Stephan and Keith Woodhouse: Moving up!


Tomorrow (4/19) we move up to ABC for at least two nights weather permitting. Base Camp is doing my head in!  In my last updates I have covered Hypoxia and Base Camp so here is a bit more information on food and diet. Compared to other expeditions like Denali, food is good by mountain standards. That said I probably would not eat a single meal of this quality back home. At over 5000 metres, water boils at 80° so much of the food is under cooked even when a pressure cooker is used. Even so it's a lot better than the dried food we will have to eat at C3 and above. I supplement the food with multi-vitamins and cod liver oil and garlic tablets. Breakfast is muesli or porridge with hot milk made from dried powder. Two eggs on toast and 4 cups of milk tea best meal of the day.

Lunch is usually something like clear or noodle soup plus maybe canned tuna with some sort of potato, pasta or boiled rice. Lemon tea or black tea. Dinner, varies at lot but could be several bowls of Sherpa stew which is veg stew with pieces of tough Yak meat or sometimes Yak steak with chips. Sue, I will never complain about tough meat at home again!!. This is followed by some sort of tinned fruit which is usually a highlight.

We all eat together served on by two Sherpa in a dining tent which has a propane heater. It is bizarre to have this set up at this altitude. And as the heater doesn't actually burn properly, ventilation is necessary, which almost defeats the objective of having a heater in the first place. Overall moral is not good. BC is like being in prison with a sentence hanging over you. I know this will pass and I'm drawing on every bit of patience I have!! Tomorrow will provide a new challenge. Moving from here to ABC will be 6-7 hours once again across the ice fall and up the western Cym. To do this in one go will test us all. The area around ABC is heavily crevassed so we will have to be very vigilant when we go on walkabout. ABC is over 6500m and both Dirk and I are looking forward to climbing up to 7000m to set new personal height achievements. I'm not sure when I will be able to update next as it will depend on the availability of a sat phone!!

Dispatches

Background

Dirk Stephan and Keith Woodhouse, a small German/English team of two will attempt Everest in Spring of 2005 via the normal southeast ridge route. Keith is in his fifties, Dirk 39. "Both of us have extensive mountaineering experience, I am in a lifetime project of the seven summits, already started with Kilimanjaro, 20 years ago. My expeditions have been self organized whenever possible. I soloed Aconcagua and Elbrus - if you can call it this way on this beaten tracks. Everest and Carstensz are still missing. Keith and me climbed Denali together the year before. Keith works for British Telecom as Manager Global Solutions. I am Pilot for a German Charter Company. My aim is to support a cancer charity. This has a personal background, as my wife has cancer herself and I am greatly involved in researching things and supporting people with the same fate. Everest is a good opportunity to raise funds things like this. Every support is welcome!"

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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