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 Mt.
Everest 2005: Dirk Stephan and Keith Woodhouse:
Moving up!
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Tomorrow (4/19) we move up to
ABC for at least two nights weather permitting. Base Camp is doing my head in!
In my last updates I have covered Hypoxia and Base Camp so here is a bit more
information on food and diet. Compared to other expeditions like Denali, food
is good by mountain standards. That said I probably would not eat a single
meal of this quality back home. At over 5000 metres, water boils at 80° so
much of the food is under cooked even when a pressure cooker is used. Even so
it's a lot better than the dried food we will have to eat at C3 and above. I
supplement the food with multi-vitamins and cod liver oil and garlic tablets.
Breakfast is muesli or porridge with hot milk made from dried powder. Two eggs
on toast and 4 cups of milk tea best meal of the day.Lunch is usually something
like clear or noodle soup plus maybe canned tuna with some sort of potato,
pasta or boiled rice. Lemon tea or black tea. Dinner, varies at lot but could
be several bowls of Sherpa stew which is veg stew with pieces of tough Yak
meat or sometimes Yak steak with chips. Sue, I will never complain about tough
meat at home again!!. This is followed by some sort of tinned fruit which is
usually a highlight.
We all eat together served on
by two Sherpa in a dining tent which has a propane heater. It is bizarre to
have this set up at this altitude. And as the heater doesn't actually burn
properly, ventilation is necessary, which almost defeats the objective of
having a heater in the first place. Overall moral is not good. BC is like
being in prison with a sentence hanging over you. I know this will pass and
I'm drawing on every bit of patience I have!! Tomorrow will provide a new
challenge. Moving from here to ABC will be 6-7 hours once again across the ice
fall and up the western Cym. To do this in one go will test us all. The area
around ABC is heavily crevassed so we will have to be very vigilant when we go
on walkabout. ABC is over 6500m and both Dirk and I are looking forward to
climbing up to 7000m to set new personal height achievements. I'm not sure
when I will be able to update next as it will depend on the availability of a
sat phone!!
Dispatches
Background
Dirk Stephan and Keith Woodhouse, a small German/English team of two will
attempt Everest in Spring of 2005 via the normal southeast ridge route. Keith
is in his fifties, Dirk 39. "Both of us have extensive mountaineering
experience, I am in a lifetime project of the seven summits, already started
with Kilimanjaro, 20 years ago. My expeditions have been self organized
whenever possible. I soloed Aconcagua and Elbrus - if you can call it this way
on this beaten tracks. Everest and Carstensz are still missing. Keith and me
climbed Denali together the year before. Keith works for British Telecom as
Manager Global Solutions. I am Pilot for a German Charter Company. My aim is
to support a cancer charity. This has a personal background, as my wife has
cancer herself and I am greatly involved in researching things and supporting
people with the same fate. Everest is a good opportunity to raise funds things
like this. Every support is welcome!"
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
collar.
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here. |
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