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  Mt. Everest 2005: Dirk Stephan and Keith Woodhouse: hopes for a upcoming summit window


Yesterday I was a bit down!! So bored and nothing happening!! Today I started thinking about what we do next and timing. A bit of background first. from a purely physical point of view BC is highest point the body can acclimatize and repair, however that's not the full story. Above this height the body re-adjusts breathing rate and oxygen levels in the blood by monitoring CO2 levels and acid content of the blood. Crucially about 7-7500m the body makes an adjustment to breathing rate, especially when sleeping that lasts about 10 days. Trick therefore is to guess summit attempt based on long range weather forecast and aim to sleep at C3 to trigger acclimatisation effect within 10 days of that date. The effort of getting to C3 and back to BC is enormous and it drains your body completely. So go too early and your 10 days runs out. Leave it too late and maybe you miss the weather window.

I have a plan that we might use which would give us a summit day of around the 9 or10th May. Rumor is that there may be a short weather window around the 5th but this is unsubstantiated. So we will have to play our hand soon. Weather permitting we will make the hard slog back to C2 on Monday

Dispatches

Background

Dirk Stephan and Keith Woodhouse, a small German/English team of two will attempt Everest in Spring of 2005 via the normal southeast ridge route. Keith is in his fifties, Dirk 39. "Both of us have extensive mountaineering experience, I am in a lifetime project of the seven summits, already started with Kilimanjaro, 20 years ago. My expeditions have been self organized whenever possible. I soloed Aconcagua and Elbrus - if you can call it this way on this beaten tracks. Everest and Carstensz are still missing. Keith and me climbed Denali together the year before. Keith works for British Telecom as Manager Global Solutions. I am Pilot for a German Charter Company. My aim is to support a cancer charity. This has a personal background, as my wife has cancer herself and I am greatly involved in researching things and supporting people with the same fate. Everest is a good opportunity to raise funds things like this. Every support is welcome!"

 

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