

Robert Goh
(left) and Edwin at the bottom of the Geneva Spur |
Update: Edwin and Robert
spend a harrowing night sleeping at Camp 3 (7,300m) without oxygen. The winds
were raging at 70 knots (120kph), threatening to flatten the tents, and making
a racket flapping the tent fabric so loudly that they could not even hear the
walkie transmissions.
Bleary eyed this morning, and
tired from not having slept a wink, the two guys and their Sirdar Kami set off
at 6.30am for Camp 4 (8,000m). It was a torturous struggle.
The westerly winds came
straight at the climbers, causing wind burns. The winds also picked up sharp
snow crystals which pelted their faces with tiny painful cuts.
“The winds were whipping our
faces,” said Edwin. “Although I wore a balaclava which covered my whole face
except my eyes, and I had goggles on, I still suffered wind burns on my left
cheek. The winds felt like I was being slapped in the face constantly.”
Said Robert: “It was an
exhausting climb because every step took us higher into thinner air. What
seemed like a short traverse to the yellow band, but took us almost four
hours. Our slow pace was due to lack of sleep as well as the increasingly thin
air. It was the first time this season we were at that altitude.”
He added: “We were feeling OK
and strong. We could go up higher, but we were just slow.”
At the bottom of the Geneva
Spur, at 7,600m, the men turned back because they needed to return to Camp 2.
“We didn’t want to spend another night sleeping at Camp 3 which would do our
bodies more damage,” explained Robert.
“After this final
acclimatisation cycle, we are doing well compared to those climbing with
oxygen,” he said. “Kami said that with this speed, we would reach the summit –
slow but constant.
“We are optimistic, but we
know it will be a mighty hard push for us both because of the long hours
needed to get to and back from the summit. It is expected to be a 24-hour
slog.”
Dispatches
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
collar.
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here. |
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