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  Mt. Everest 2005: Henry Todd Team's Everest and Lhotse attempts going up at the same time!

File Photo Copyright©Everestnews.com

Update June 4, 2005: (June 5 in Nepal): Dr Rob Casserley (UK), Rob Milne (UK), Mike Davey (UK), Tim Calder (UK), Dr Simon Holland (Aus), Mark George (Aus), Dr Richard Birrer (US), Bo Parfet (US), David Klein (Hungary), Claire David (France - Lhotse).

Update June 4, 2005: (June 5 in Nepal): Henry's team has left the South Col and are headed up... Stay tuned...

Update June 3, 2005: Henry Todd's team, with all 9 of its members at are camp 4 and are going for the summit tonight.

Update June 1, 2005: Several readers has asked where is old Henry? We are told Henry has taken Dan Mazur place in the sat bird's seat at camp 2. Sounds like he might be considering a weekend push...

Did know some people have permits until June 15th!! We are not sure how long Henry's is...

Update 5/27/2005: Henry Todd, leader of the Himalayan Guides 2005 expedition been know as Henry Todd expedition, has been sitting at Base Camp while most of the others are at camp 2. What does Old Henry know? Probably the same thing we do, that high winds are forecasted for even the 1 and 2 of June. What we don't know is how long Henry can stay... Stay Tuned...

Update 5/21/2005: Some have asked about Old Henry's group, sounds like a candy bar? Only when he is happy... They are at base camp. Playing cards and telling stories...

Update 5/4/2005: Old Henry's team was at camp 2 when the avalanche hit. Henry appears to be moving up, as most move down with the storm moving in

Update 4/29/2005: Hi EverestNews.com, Everything is going well. It seems like a fairly average season up until now. Our Sherpas fixed over the yellow band a few days ago, since then they have been down here resting. Our team have been up to camp 3. It's very windy today, the weather has been in a pattern of sunny mornings, precipitation in the afternoons, so we're waiting for it to settle down a bit. Best Wishes, Sue

Background: Henry Todd is returning to Mt Everest again in Spring 2005 to lead the Himalayan Guides 2005 Everest Expedition. Sue (Harper) Todd, who summited last year, will assist but not stay and attempt the summit this year...

Rob Milne is one of his climbers, more to follow..

Hi-tech support helps Everest climber's bid to join elite

Pioneering technology that enables climbers and explorers to plan expeditions more effectively – and could even help to save lives – will be ‘road tested’ by a Scottish-based mountaineer on Everest this spring. Computer technology being developed at the University of Edinburgh will allow climber Rob Milne to respond rapidly to changing conditions and inform family and friends back home of his progress and any alterations to his plans. Dr Milne, a leading software engineer and entrepreneur, hopes to climb Everest in May and so join the elite group of mountaineers to have climbed the highest peak on each of the seven continents.

Dr Milne, who has already climbed Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania) Vinson Massif (Antarctica), Elbrus (Europe), Kilimanjaro (Africa), Denali (North America) and Aconcagua (South America), will be the first mountaineer to use the IM-PACs (intelligent messaging, planning and collaboration) system. The technology, developed at the Artificial Intelligence Applications Institute in the University of Edinburgh’s School of Informatics, has been designed to provide computer support to people and teams performing a range of tasks – not just expedition teams operating in extreme conditions, but also key personnel involved in planning and rescue services responding rapidly to emergencies. IM-PACs’ foundations in artificial intelligence planning technologies supply a framework that encourages a methodological approach to any task and allows users to transmit and respond to information in ways that can adapt to the circumstances the expedition team finds itself in.

During his ascent, Dr. Milne will be in regular contact with colleagues in base camp who will monitor his progress against his ascent plan. A laptop computer and satellite phone will allow details of his current status and progress to be sent over the internet to a support team in Edinburgh. Were conditions to deteriorate significantly at any time, the IM-PACs technology could be invoked to suggest alternative courses of action. Should conditions deteriorate still further, IM-PACs could be used to widen the scope to review the expedition’s objectives and consider other capabilities and options, such as the availability of rescue services, and set about marshalling these to achieve the revised objectives. 

Said Dr Milne: “On an expedition like this, it is vital to keep track of where you are, what you are trying to do and the contingency options when your brain is barely able to function because of the lack of oxygen. Giving the IM-PACs software an ultimate field test will not only help pioneer the way for remote support, but also provide feedback to my friends and family as to how I am progressing. That lets me relax and concentrate on a safe ascent. This is an ideal combination of leading edge technology to assist with one of the greatest physical challenges on the planet.”

Professor Austin Tate, Technical Director of AIAI, said: “Any attempt on Everest requires a lot of coordination and planning before, during and after the expedition. This makes such ‘extreme’ expeditions good examples of the kind of thing we wish to support with IM-PACs and AI planning technology. Supporting Rob Milne in his final milestone for his personal ‘continent tops’ challenge is a great opportunity to showcase what could be achieved in such missions. Our aim is to provide technology for more effective collaboration in extreme and emergency situations.”

IM-PACs is funded by Scottish Enterprise, the European Research Development Fund (ERDF) and the School of Informatics at the University of Edinburgh.


Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.




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