The weather changes very
quickly. We were outside the tent watching how the Sherpas opened the trail
from CIII to CIV, it is a great wall of very vertical ice where not much snow
accumulates and the bluish ice can be seen.
Seven little dots can be seen
moving slowly. Some take ropes, others ice screws and stakes to fix them,
they advance very fast.
But we can not see the way
we'd like to, because the clouds go up and down, like curtains.
We got up quick and we
enjoyed this marvelous spectacle than some of the highest mountains of the
world can give.
Last night the thermometer
went down to -19ºC. But in the tent and inside our sleeping bags it is not
bad, the sun rises and we crave for oxygen, that is how we ended up on the
moraine rocks having breakfast.
As I said in the beginning
the weather changes very quickly and we have to look for shelter from a heavy
snowfall inside a tent.
In a few minutes everything
is white, it gets colder and there is little we can do.
We can hear seracs rumble, we
can hear the snow fall, we are surrounded by clouds and they will decide the
moment when we can see the walls that surround us again.
To the right we have Nuptse,
of almost 8,000 m.
In the front, the way to
follow to CIII and up above the summit of Lhotse, one of the 14 peaks higher
than 8,000 m.
To our left we have the roof
of the world, our objective, it looks close, there are still 2,500 m. to go.
From here it will be another world in which we will be smaller and
insignificant compared to these masses of rock and ice.
We leave behind the Valley of
Silence, where the route that brought us here to CII crosses, and it is still
snowing and the temperature goes up and down, it is not unusual to see people
coughing and sneezing.
I say yes and I say no.
Here is the same, you
asphyxiate from the heat that you get when you wear more layers than an onion.
Now it is cold, now it is
hot, now put some ISDIN cream, now put on all the TRANGO clothing you have.
It is the same with feet, put on the LORPEN and then heat
Tomorrow the plans have a
different form for each of us, Jorge and Haya leave to CIII, while David goes
back to BC.
The truth is that David's
throat is not good and to force it in these altitudes is not good. Today we
have been told that the Icefall couldn't be crossed because some blocks fell
down, we will talk with the Sherpas to confirm that it is open again. Haya
and Jorge are showing their great generosity by offering me warm milk every
night to heal my throat... I will go down to BC. One of the Sherpas will go
with me, he had planned to go down from CIII to BC. The Sherpas are in
By now, at 18:20 we have
-11ºC, it doesn't snow but we have been able to see some avalanches that
luckily are not on our route, we are in the tent and we feel the cold in our
hands, battered by the sun and the wind.
will call Haya and Jorge using Diego's phone, our Italian friend at BC.
A little help
for tomorrow would be ok for us.
We will continue forward, we
feel like telling you live how we climbed this huge Mountain.
Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
This is their second
expedition to Everest, this time via the South Face. They have already tried
the North Face in 2001. They will hire two Sherpas for the expedition.
· 1996 Bolivian
Andes, summit of Illimani, 6490 m and other 6.000 m. peaks.
· 1998 Cho-Oyu.
Jorge and Endika made it to the summit, 8.201 m. and David gave up just 700m.
from the summit.
· 2.000 Manaslu
(8.163m.), did not make it to the summit due to bad weather, first time in the
Himalayas for Haya.
· 2.001 Everest North
Face, Jorge reached the summit, 8.848m., David was 200m. down because of a
malfunction of the oxygen equipment, and Endika around 500 m. below.
· 2.002 David, Jorge
and Endika went to the Geographic North Pole after a trip of more than 20 days
over frozen ocean.
· 2003 defeated by
Nanga Parbat, just got to Camp II.
All the expeditions have been
sponsored by Universidad Politécnica de Valencia.
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