Photo Tom West © EverestNews.com
It is 17:15 in the afternoon,
we are inside our tent in BC, checking the pictures of the day, waiting a new
weather forecast and once more we have tried to rest after lunch. It's not
that we really need the nap, because our activity is not what you'd call
frenzy... but it is a nice way to make time go by quick. We could not sleep
in the end, the attempt to watch a movie has left us wanting nothing... we
could not watch nothing, of nothing.
As you can see we have not
been able to climb to CII. The weather forecast finally came at 9.00 in the
evening, our time, it warned of the entry of a blizzard for days 14 and 15,
and the forecast for the wind continued to be of strong winds, and up there is
just what we don't want, so we have been left with no possible day for the
Well, I'll start from the
It was 8:00 in the morning
when we got up. Yesterday afternoon's news from CII, from our Sherpas, were
not good. CIV could not be mounted, too much wind. I think that now our
Sherpas are thinking that we warned them, that we told them they should try to
carry the materials the day before, and that the wind would come then and
everything would be worse. They preferred to wait one day, keeping their
Sherpa style, but I think now that they realized that the weather forecasts
should be read too.
The thing is that our Sirdar
told us yesterday afternoon that Pema, the youngest Sherpa we have, had
suffered frostbite in two of his fingers in the right hand. We were waiting
for him to arrive yesterday, coming down from CIII. Finally he didn't come
and he spent the night in CII, with the rest of the Sherpas.
When we were having
breakfast, around 9:00 in the morning, we were still waiting for him to
arrive, because we were afraid that this frostbite would be serious. Around
9:30 the kid came, with a glove on, with his face battered by the sun, and
with the expression of a child that doesn't know very well what is going on.
The truth is that I think that he is not conscious of what awaits for him,
the recovery time and above all the real risk of the frostbite. We all went
into the kitchen, we removed the glove with expectation and the thing is worst
than what we expected. In the beginning we could only see the two big
blisters in his 3rd and 4th fingers, but then we confirmed that necrosis also
advances in the tip of those two fingers. In the beginning, the boy, who by
the way is 22 years old, is married and with a girl of three months, said that
he would be back in the mountain in a couple of days. It is his first
expedition as a Sherpa, and I think that the inexperience made him say things
like those, without knowing very well what he really has in his hand.
We left him surrounded by his
peers and we have left the scene. We finished our breakfast and we went to
look for him again in the kitchen, to make it clear that he didn't have to
worry about nothing now, that his mission was to go down quick to the hospital
in Kunde. When we went to the kitchen he was not there anymore, we went up to
the Iranian expedition. We went up fast and we talked with the doctor of the
Iranian expedition, he injected some medicines and made a letter to give to
the doctor in the hospital that is located in BC. I am not anyone to judge
the Iranian doctor, but if you let me express my opinion, his manners didn't
like me. After all the responsibility of what happens to him is ours. But,
well, I suppose he did the best he could, and as a doctor, things I can not
We setup a backpack and
without losing time we have left to the hospital that is located in BC. The
truth is that with everything that the Iranian doctor injected to him, the
only thing left to do was to clean his hand and cover the blisters with gauze.
The doctor did that, to protect the blisters from possible infections in case
We explained to Pema, that he
didn't have to worry about nothing, that we have paid his insurance and he
would collect it fully. And that he didn't have to worry about the cost of
hospitals and medicines, that the insurance would take care of it. We gave
him some money so that he could go to the hospital in Kunde.
When he found out that in the
time he will be recovering he would also be earning, he was amazed and while
he hugged us, tears flowed.
It is incredible to see how a
kid of 22 years old, comes down from CIII, with his hand in that state and his
worry is that he has left his job undone, his compromise with us.
Well, I suppose that in this
kind of moments, in this kind of events, in which the mountain has been
completely forgotten and what is left is a pure human relationship, we cannot
transmit it to you, it's something that in each and every expedition takes us
for what we are, people who love the mountain.
Once Pema had left, life on
BC has continued...
We've been busy in diverse
occupations... read, read, read...
Today's food was something
special, we had "cous cous", I think this is the way it is written. There is
a restaurant by the Lirios clinic, which they say is good to eat "cous cous",
but I haven't been able to confirm it... The thing is that the three of us
liked it. Talking about food, I tell you that breakfast was bad and a little
grilled ham saved us again.
The morning brought another
surprise, I almost forget... it was 8:30 in the morning when we hear the noise
of a helicopter, and to our surprise it was flying over Nuptse, above 8,000
meters. This is the helicopter we told you about in the other chronicle, it
is making high altitude tests. It has flown over Nuptse, around BC with no
problems and disappeared by the end of the valley... once you have seen normal
helicopters fly in these heights, looking at this almost touching the glacier
ice easily is something worth seeing.
Today we communicated with
the Sherpas in CII, and the wind is very strong, so today they couldn't get to
CIV either. Today we all wait for the good weather to come. It is curious to
see how life on BC can totally depend on an e-mail. Imagine you get up
everyday and the first thing is to get the mail, read the weather forecast,
comment with your neighbors in order to plan the next days... well, that is
our daily life now in BC.
Once more we thank all of you
who make these expeditions possible, and of course we thank the deanship of
UPV, everyone of the collaborators and even though you already know, we will
repeat it again and again, to all of you who support us through the Web. The
truth is that we are waiting for the time to send the chronicle, to use the
connection to read the guests book, is a support that is hard to explain, but
that come to us every night right before we turn off our headlamps.
Thanks and be sure that there
will be more tomorrow...
Translated from Spanish by
Translated from Spanish by
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