Mt. Everest 2005: Valencia: Moving up!

Update: Sunday, May 28, 2005

THEY ARE IN CAMP II

The abominable men have arrived to CII.  They woke up at 4:30 and at 5:20 they were on the glacier.  When they got to the Khumbu the first thing that surprised them was how much the part next to the Base Camp has changed.  They found porous ice, characteristic in the end of the season.  When they got to the part where 5 ladders are tied one to each other there was another surprise: there were not five but six ladders!  The bottom part had separated more from the wall and they were not enough.  Once this part was passed, the first crevasse that was seen and that had to be crossed on a ladder before, this time it needed two joined together.  One more proof that it was progressively opening.  They filmed the crevasses of more than 20 meters deep, so the Expeadictos will be able to watch those huge crevasses!  The superior part of the glacier remains stable due to the low temperatures.  Once the glacier is passed, walking over the Valley of Silence has been like going through an oven, the sun hit hard and that exhausted them a lot.

It took the boys almost 9 hours to get to CII, they were very slow and Haya and Jorge ended up burned down (it looks like David was a little better).  So much time in BC made them pay the price, they were a lot of days without really moving!, but tomorrow's rest in CII will surely do them good and will make them strong once again.

When they got to CII it was very hot, so they pulled out their sleeping bags and lay down to rest.  It is not the comfort of BC, but they can't complain, because since there is a lot of heat, there is a river one and a half meters wide and a creek running next to their tents, so they don't need to melt snow.  They said they are giving a lot of importance to hydration.  The Brazilians have of course climbed with them and are in the tent next door.

Lhotse and Everest had a mushroom of clouds on them which means there is a strong wind in that altitude.  The abominable men have seen the new forecast that make them optimistic: it looks like the wind will recede as the days go by.  On the day 2 while leaving camp IV they will find winds of 4 m/s (some 14 Km/h).  When they get to the summit the wind will blow at 7 m/s (25 Km/h) and will increase up to 12 m/s (43 Km(h) as the morning advances. Tomorrow they will get a new forecast.  Tonight several groups will attempt for the first time by the South Face, among them is Jesus Calleja.  They will leave at 8 p.m. and besides opening the trail for our boys, they will install fixed lines.

So, let's rest tomorrow!

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

Altitude pre-
   acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here