Mt. Everest 2005: Mountainwaz Summits Everest: Final report with great summit pictures

Gyalzen Sherpa and Scott Wazny on the Summit of Mt Everest. Note the Chinese Tripod

Update July 5th, 2005: Well May 30, 2005 will be a day I’ll always remember:  the day I stepped foot on the top of the world.  My climbing partner and good friend, Gyalzen Sherpa and I were fortunate to finally get a window of good weather during the night of May 29th and into the morning of May 30th.  The two of us left camp IV (located at over 26,000’ on the south col) at approx. 11:00pm.  We were both using oxygen and felt strong as we started the climb.  The night sky was mostly clear and I could see flashes of light in the distant sky, which I’m guessing, were far away lightning storms.  As the sun started to rise I was about 2 hrs below the South Summit and saw a killer view of Everest’s shadow cast on the mountains and valleys below.  After passing the Hillary step we climbed another 45 minutes up a snow ramp to the true summit.  I reached the summit at about 9:45am – just amazing!  I took off my pack and oxygen mask and just took in the view.  All the mountains that I had been staring up at were now below me, everything was below me, it was just an insane feeling to actually be standing on the highest point on this planet!  A mast with a unique red basket looking thing on top of it is anchored to the narrow summit ridge marking the true summit.  After taking a few pictures I noticed that it was nearly 20 minutes past 10am and clouds now covered the valleys below, and the wind was starting to pick-up.  So Gyalzen and I started down.  Not more than a few steps off the summit I realized I was out of oxygen!  Not to worry I had a second tank in my pack.  So I took off my pack and while I was attaching the regulator to the new bottle I realized I set my pack down on a small patch of rocks – so I grabbed one and thru it in my pack.  I never thought I’d have a favorite rock, but I do now!

on the Summit of Mt Everest. Note the Chinese Tripod

The descent took about 5 hours down to camp IV and the South Col. The weather steadily got worse as we went down, but we made it safely back to camp just after 3pm.  Both Gyalzen and I were very thirsty so I melted ice for water, guzzled it down and crashed out.

Over the next 2 days we climbed down to basecamp and I made my 6th and final trip over the ladders of the Khumbu Icefall.  The next day (June 2nd) we packed up camp and walked away from the place that had been my home for the previous 6 weeks.

With all the publicity and opinions about climbing Mount Everest there is one thing that cannot be disputed – it is the highest point on the planet.  Sure there are many routes on some of the world’s other great mountains that may be more challenging, in fact I’ve climbed many routes more technically challenging than the southeast ridge on Everest, but the view from the top of the world is second to none.  Where else could you possible have a better view?  There are 7 or 8 other 8,000M peaks right there near Everest and from the top you’re looking down on them all.  It just blows you away!

It obviously was a great trip, great experience and fun to share my excitement with family, friends and co-workers.  Everyone has been very supportive of my wife Dana and I, and we appreciate it.  So what’s next?  I’ve been asked that question but quite a bit.  Mountaineering is something I definitely have a passion for so I will continue to climb as much as time will allow here in the Pacific Northwest and for the next big trip/expedition… only time will tell. 

“You can take the boy out of the Mountains, but you can’t take the Mountains out of the boy” Scott

The Shadow

Updates

Millet One Sport Everest Boot for Spring 2010 has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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