Everest Summiter Zeddy Summits Cho Oyu! Picture

Update 9/22/2005: Zeddy summit Cho Oyu! at 13:50 Beijing time.  Now, he is in camp 3 and trying to make it to camp 1.  Pray for his safe return.

Update 9/21/2005: Please find the latest message from Zed. Cho Oyu Altitude (7400 m)  "We’re at high camp (7400 m) and ready for summit push tonight. 

The team is not feeling very good due to high winds.  We expect slight drop later on otherwise a message from top." Thanks and best regards

Earlier Update: Zeddy that they're at Camp-II and they'll head to summit tomorrow night.  His friends ask, "Just pray for our love one."

Earlier Update: It has been a long time since you heard some news from me.

The human body is not supposed to function at high altitude, let alone my laptop. The highest human settlement is about 5000m in South America and I don't think they have internet connection there. My laptop has been misbehaving and hence, the lack of communication. But thanks to backup infrastructure, that allows me to send this journal. We have now finalized our acclimatisation program and are resting at Advanced Base Camp (5700m). I have been suffering from bronchitis, commonly known here as 'khumbu cough', because of the dry air at this altitude. We have been to the 'ice cliff' which is a huge cornice between Camp 1 & 2, at about 7000m. It gave us a sense of the route that lies ahead. The mountain is getting very popular with so many climbers wanting to have an 8000m peak under the belt. Russell estimates that there are about 300 climbers on the mountain. The weather has been cold and miserable as expected, because we are shifting seasons from the monsoon to the winter.

I ran into my old good friend Kinji Kundo, a well known Japanese guide and climber. I climbed Vinson Massif in Antarctica with him 2 years ago. He came over to our tent to use the satellite to send email and he gave us some Japanese treats which I consumed on the spot.

Our members are in great form. However, Francoise our 55 year old female dentist has decided to call it quits, and she will wait for us down here, while we go for the summit. 

All big expedition leaders met here as we celebrated Patrick's 56th birthday. They all discussed their plans for the summit push 'weather permitting'. Weather forecast favours the 23rd as our summit day "Inshallah". So this means that we head back up the mountain for the final summit push the day after tomorrow (20th Sept). The good news about this plan, is that we will be one of the first teams up, leaving room for the busy crowd to follow our trail (some teams are still arriving, as the case with my Japanese friend Kundo).

Prior to arrival at Camp 1, you have to go up an ugly scree slope over 400 meters which is an exhausting task and mind ***********. It reminds me of my nightmare on Aconcagua. I shared a tent with Phuba Tashi (10 times Everest summit and he's only 34 years old). He is the same Sherpa who short-roped me on my descent from the summit of Everest after going a snow-blind.

Expedition life can really take its toll. We are running out of books to read, and things to talk about. Many miss their loved ones at home. I have to initiate some discussion with my climbing mates to keep things interesting. Topics range from world political views to aboriginal rights in Australia.

It's the waiting game now. If I could invent an acclimatization pill that takes the human body from see level to 8000 peaks, I'd be a rich man! It would save a lot of sitting around.

I hope to send another journal before the summit push, if not I will notify Mr. Zubair at our control centre in Dubai by Sat phone & or text updates of the summit progress. 

Till again, Cheerio

Zeddy

Sunday 18 September 2005 Cho Oyu ABC 5700 meters

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