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  Annapurna Dhaulagiri 2005: AFTER THE SUMMIT OF DHAULAGIRI


Base Camp, May 9: Last May 5th, Iván Vallejo and his teammates of the expedition (Italy, Spain and Austria), reached 7,800 m of altitude as part of the first attempt to reach the summit of the seventh highest mountain in the world, of 8,167m, in the Himalayas. The main goal of this last approach to Dhaulagiri, by Vallejo, was to finish his acclimatization process and, if the conditions were good, to make a swift attempt to the summit.  The team was following the trail opened by a Korean team, which was supposed to make the summit the previous day.

The early morning of the ascent was completely clear, having always besides the impressive shadow of Annapurna (8,091 m), the next goal of the expedition, by the middle of May.  The temperature, normal for these altitudes, was between minus 19 and minus 15 Celsius, with no wind.  At 10 in the morning, at 7,800 m they found out that the trail of the Korean team would not lead them to the main summit of Dhaulagiri; actually the Korean team had not reached it.  So they should go back one part and cross a long corridor to take the right direction in the middle of very loose snow, it had snowed the eight previous days, making the risk of avalanche bigger. The climbers decided to go down to Base Camp, where Vallejo arrived at 8 in the evening, after 10 uninterrupted hours of descent.

After recovering strength and hydrate, the climbers are in good conditions and in a few hours they will make another attempt, installing two high altitude camps: CI at 6,800, where they will be on Tuesday; CII at 7,300, where they will spend the night on Wednesday and, in the early morning of Thursday they will climb to the main summit of Dhaulagiri.  The attack team of Ivan Vallejo is made in this occasion by Ińaki Ochoa from Spain and Cristian Stangl from Austria.  The Italian group is ahead one day, but Vallejo decided to wait until the weather forecasts showed an improvement in the wind, very strong in the superior part close to the summit. The Korean group abandoned the mountain.

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

Dispatches

 

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