Update: Day 61 – 19th of May
Good morning, this is mBank
Lotto Annapurna South Face Expedition. Piotr Pustelnik, welcome from the base
camp. Let me start from the short conclusion, before I go into details, as you
haven’t heard from me for a long time. We were operating high in the mountain
and there was no time to call and report.
All four of us settled
towards the top. Vlado resigned somewhere around the ABC, as he had no energy
to continue. One of the sherpas replaced him and accompanied us to the camp
II. Four days ago we settled towards the camp III with a lot of equipment and
after 16 hours of hard work we left all the difficulties of the Bonnington
road behind. About 11 p.m. I decided not to look for the place for a bivouac
and to return to camp II, where we would leave the equipment. It was a very
dramatic decision after this entire struggle to get there, when we lost much
energy. After this Marcin and Sherpa resigned, there was only me and Piotr
Two days ago we settled
towards the top and on the fix ropes my energy also finished and I had to
decide about coming back. I was simply unable to go on and Piotr could not
keep climbing alone. I feel really bad and sorry about how it all finished...
We are all in the BC now. I
am trying to recover from all my physical and psychical wounds. We really
engaged so much energy here. Together with Piotr we put 3 km of fix ropes. The
weather was terrible, we had to work under the avalanches. I was hit by a
piece of ice and I had cuts on my head, but we had an incredible satisfaction
to defeat the Bonnington road meter by meter...and that it will be fine.
Anyway, we made it, we left the difficulties behind...but we could not
conclude it, we did not reach the top.
But I have to say that I have
also a great satisfaction that I could climb with someone, who will probably
mean a lot in Polish himalaism, with Piotr Morawski. He really has chances to
do much in the highest mountains.
I want to thank everybody who
supported us, who made this expedition possible. You were great.
I can’t resist some more
impressions. It was a very long expedition, we worked long in the wall and the
conditions were really difficult. One may say it does not matter, as we did
not reach the top. This mountain is really demanding, you must use all your
climbing skills and have a very strong psychic. We had to fight with the snow
all the time, it was much worse than last year.
I am under great impression
of this wall, beauty of this road and the intuition of the ones who traced it.
It surprised us all the time – with its difficulties, with its length. I am
really satisfied that we managed to go that far. In spite of all the
ambivalent feelings that I have now, it was really great to climb here. I just
wish I had come here 10 years ago...
Once again, thank you.
From the satellite phone,