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  Annapurna 2005 South Face: is over


Update: They are in Kathmandu now, and they are preparing to come back to Poland. Their plane will land on Okęcie Airport (Warsaw) on 30 th of May at 12. Best wishes, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update: Day 61 – 19th of May

Good morning, this is mBank Lotto Annapurna South Face Expedition. Piotr Pustelnik, welcome from the base camp. Let me start from the short conclusion, before I go into details, as you haven’t heard from me for a long time. We were operating high in the mountain and there was no time to call and report.

All four of us settled towards the top. Vlado resigned somewhere around the ABC, as he had no energy to continue. One of the sherpas replaced him and accompanied us to the camp II. Four days ago we settled towards the camp III with a lot of equipment and after 16 hours of hard work we left all the difficulties of the Bonnington road behind. About 11 p.m. I decided not to look for the place for a bivouac and to return to camp II, where we would leave the equipment. It was a very dramatic decision after this entire struggle to get there, when we lost much energy. After this Marcin and Sherpa resigned, there was only me and Piotr left.

Two days ago we settled towards the top and on the fix ropes my energy also finished and I had to decide about coming back. I was simply unable to go on and Piotr could not keep climbing alone. I feel really bad and sorry about how it all finished... 

We are all in the BC now. I am trying to recover from all my physical and psychical wounds. We really engaged so much energy here. Together with Piotr we put 3 km of fix ropes. The weather was terrible, we had to work under the avalanches. I was hit by a piece of ice and I had cuts on my head, but we had an incredible satisfaction to defeat the Bonnington road meter by meter...and that it will be fine. Anyway, we made it, we left the difficulties behind...but we could not conclude it, we did not reach the top.

But I have to say that I have also a great satisfaction that I could climb with someone, who will probably mean a lot in Polish himalaism, with Piotr Morawski. He really has chances to do much in the highest mountains.

I want to thank everybody who supported us, who made this expedition possible. You were great.

I can’t resist some more impressions. It was a very long expedition, we worked long in the wall and the conditions were really difficult. One may say it does not matter, as we did not reach the top. This mountain is really demanding, you must use all your climbing skills and have a very strong psychic. We had to fight with the snow all the time, it was much worse than last year.

I am under great impression of this wall, beauty of this road and the intuition of the ones who traced it. It surprised us all the time – with its difficulties, with its length. I am really satisfied that we managed to go that far. In spite of all the ambivalent feelings that I have now, it was really great to climb here. I just wish I had come here 10 years ago...

Once again, thank you.

From the satellite phone, Piotr Pustelnik

Dispatches

 

Piotr Pustelnik will lead a group of veteran climbers to attempt to summit Annapurna in Spring 2005. After Annapurna he is considering Broad Peak "via normale but I still think about this unclimbed ridge starting near Concordia." We have covered Piotr numerous times including Annapurna 2004.
Piotr Pustelnik, with his Summit of Kangchenjunga has joined an elite group in the goal to reach the True Summits of the 14 8000 meter peaks. 

Below is a short biography of Piotr Pustelnik

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