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Makalu, K2,
Kangchenjunga
Summiter Carlos Pauner returns to Everest to attempt without oxygen!
WITH ALL THE BLESSINGS By Carlos
Pauner
Here I am sitting again, in
front of an altar decorated with butter figurines that the cooks made with a
lot of work. Here I am again surrounded by the high mountains, while the wind
and the sun hit my face. Again, a Lama recites, with monotonous rhythm, some
mantras, the prayers that will bless all of us who are here. Another
expedition has begun and as always, we have the Puja ritual, a Buddhist ritual
that will concede us with the best outcome in the days to follow. In this
occasion, because of the category of the mountain, the Lama who directs the
act has a high hierarchy and began a more especial ceremony, more powerful,
with more energy. This is called the black Puja. The act evolves slowly,
with no rush, because if there is something that we have a lot here, it is
time. The wind shakes the flags, the smoke surrounds us creating an especial
atmosphere, while our looks are fixed on the mountain, in this harsh slopes
that will be our terrain for adventure during a few weeks. We end the act
with some ritual yells that mean the happiness that we will feel if we are
conceded the grace of getting to the summit. We throw rice to the air, and
flour, liquor, offers for the gods of the Himalayas to get respect from them
and to hope that the expedition develops with no trouble. Very slowly, the
Lama puts some colorful laces around our necks, the talismans that will
protect us from any evil. Afterwards, sitting around the altar of stones, the
chorten, we eat the food we had placed on its base as a gift. From the
solemnity of the ceremony, the rhythms of the prayers, we get loud, to enjoy a
moment of peace, of friendship, the eve of everything that is still to come.
Suddenly, an agile and small
figure comes to me, greeting and getting my attention. It's Apa Sherpa, one
of the most interesting characters around here. He has climbed Everest 14
times, along with commercial expeditions, working for them and letting them
get to the highest point. This year, again, he wants to get to the top,
working with an American group. I greet him with admiration and he start
telling me stories about his ascents. He tells me to be careful, that if I
want to complete my ascent with no artificial oxygen, I have to leave earl on
the day of the summit attack. He tells me that I have to be faster even than
those who carry those miraculous bottles on their backs, because if I'm not I
will have to be standing a lot of time at the Hillary step, waiting for those
ahead of me to pass that narrow passage, very close to the summit. We spend a
long time chatting, telling experiences of this and other mountains. He looks
at me with respect, because he knows I am one of the only 5 mortals that this
year will try to get to the summit of Everest by their own means, with no
artificial help, like the real climbers. I also express my admiration to a
person that has been so many times on the roof of the world, and above all,
that he is not doing it for his own pleasure, but as a hard and formidable way
to earn a living. My most sincere hug and respect to him. Carlos
Translated from Spanish by
Jorge Rivera
Dispatches

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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot for Spring 2009 has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
collar.
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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