Carlos Pauner Mt. Everest 2005: Midway

Little by little time goes by.  It's been almost two weeks since we arrived to this base camp and despite a few days of bad weather, meteorology has respected us in general.  We have settled camp 1 at 6,100 m of altitude, just over the Khumbu Icefall and now we stretch to our next objective, camp 2 at 6,400 m.

The terrain that separates both camps is simpler than the Icefall we have passed.  This is the entrance to the Valley of Silence, a narrow glacier valley that is between Nuptse and the southeast face of Everest, and hits the Lhotse wall.  Because there is not much distance between camps I and II, and little altitude difference, I think it would be better to leave base camp soon and get to camp 2 in one try and spend the night there and gain acclimatization.

In fact, with this tactic and after the period of recovering and rest in base camp, the process of acclimatization would reach the middle level.  We will be acclimatized up to 7,000 m., we could move to that mark with relative efficiency.  There is still a lot of work to do, but for the moment we are following our plan.  Comparing this trip with the first we did over the Icefall, we can see a difference and we can move more quickly and with more comfort on this terrain.  It is incredible what the human body can achieve with some patience and will.  

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

Dispatches

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

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