Carlos Pauner Mt. Everest 2005: CRUCIAL TIMES

By Carlos Pauner

We are in the beginning of May and the decisive time for the expedition starts.  In these days we should do the final phase of acclimatization.  After this period we only have to be prepared for the final attack.  So we have to do everything with much care.

It has snowed lightly these days.  Curiously is has barely been windy.  I've never seen something like this.  When the winds blow on the summits of the Himalayas they always blow and blow without stopping.  It has not been like that this time.  Maybe they are accumulating to unleash later with all their intensity.  I hope it won't be like that.  For the next days we hope to get a light weather improvement.  At least, it seems that it will stop snowing.  The idea for these days is to leave to camp 2, at 6,400 m., sleep there again, and install camp 3 at 7,200 m on the next day, sleep up there and, I, in my personal plan without oxygen, will try to go up that night to get close to 8,000.  That way, I think that the stimulation for the acclimatization will be more than enough and next night I pass this place will be to attempt the summit.  After these hard days, a long rest should come and probably even I will leave base camp to go down to lower lands for a few days to recover my throat, which without a doubt will suffer in this excursion.  I think that there is little to do when the throat complains, it only stops doing it when you are back to the lowlands of Katmandu.  Anyway.  Except for this troubles, our health is fine.  Dr. Morandeira from the Clinical Hospital, and our nurse Manolo Vazquez, from Royo Villanova, prepared a nice first aid kit, which we have only have to use so far for our cough and some antibiotics.  That's good.

We want to go out and do all this process of altitude, because this way we will be closer to the end, to be able to go out to fight with all our strength in the highest point.  I dream to be back from those high altitude climbs, resting down here and waiting for that window of good weather to mark the definitive battle.

For the moment, it is snowing right now and it is time to dream about other places, to be homesick thinking about dinners with friends in El Patio or La Mandrágora, in Taberna Azoque, or in any other place of our city.  Of virtually breath the cold air of Moncayo or the Ibérico, walking without a rush or compromise.  Of feeling the force of the wind on my hands on a plane, flying over Pyrenean lands (by the way, regards to my friends of the Aeroclub).  Well, to remember so many people and situations, which I've left behind and that now in this place are necessary images to stay alive.  I am calm.  I am convinced of what I can and have to do.  I am sure and thankful of the unconditional support of the Government of Aragon, who has trusted my criterion and has been able to transmit tranquility, warmness and friendship.  Definitively, I am here calm, sure about myself, happy with my memories, proud of my family and waiting, patiently, those days of high altitude mountain that are about to come real soon.

Thank all of you who follow this adventure. 

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

Dispatches

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

Altitude pre-
   acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here