(Partners on Shisha, left is Hubert Rieger,
center , right side is Günther Unterberger)
Update May 20th:
Gerfried Goeschl has turned back
his summit attempt due to the strong winds and extremely
cold weather, they turned back at 7500 meters (camp 2), and now he will
descend down to 5100m for a few days.
Today, May 03, 2005 at 8:45 a.m.
Austrian time we received the phone call via satellite phone: Gerfried Goeschl
is sitting on the main summit of Shisha Pangma, 8027m. He is the only one who
after the strenuous climb without oxygen still had the stamina to continue
from the central summit, where the rest of the group remained, on to the main
summit. The group is waving and shouting while he calls. Tomorrow, after they
have safely descended, we will receive the next report with more details. We
congratulate the Northland Shisha Pangma Expedition team
Professional expedition climbing Shisha Pangma
(8027m) & Mount Everest (8848m) Spring 2005
..Tested under extreme conditions..
plan: Spring 2005 Gerfried Goeschl leads the Northland Professional expedition
to climb Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. The international team consisting of
11 members want to climb to the summit via the north ridge. Four Austrians,
five Germans (two women) and one climber from the Netherlands will accompany
leave Europe on April 4 for Kathmandu, and April 14 the first basecamp (ABC)
in 5600m in Tibet will be established.
with his friends Guenther Unterberger and Hubert Rieger Gerfried wants to
acclimatize on the mountain and try the climb to the summit. They group will
leave Tibet on May 15 and return via Kathmandu back to Austria on May 18.
will stay in Tibet and rest in Tingri (4350m) for two or three days, and will
then proceed to the northern basecamp of Mount Everest (8848m).
From upper basecamp (6450m) he will start for the summit
without oxygen. His return is planned for June 5.
Shisha Pangma (8027m):
Pangma was the last of the fourteen 8000m high mountains which was climbed in
1964 by a group of Chinese and Tibetan climbers. Shisha Pangma is the only
8000m high mountain which is completely located within the Tibetan borders.
technical difficulties of the mountain apart from the extreme altitude are
near the summit, very steep and exposed traverses above 7800m make reaching
the seldom climbed main summit difficult.
climbers from Styria, Austria who climbed Shisha Pangma were the well known
climber Hanns Schell in 1985 with Thomas Schilcher.
Mount Everest (8848m):
Everest is well known as the highest mountain on earth. The summit is located
exactly on the border between Nepal and China/Tibet.
first ascent was made by the New Zealand climber Edmund Hillary and Sherpa
Tensing Norgay in 1953 from the southern side in Nepal, which is the normal
route today, after the many expeditions through the preceding decades failed.
climbers who reached the summit without oxygen were Peter Habeler from Tyrol
and Reinhold Messner from South Tyrol in 1978. The first and up to now only
Styrian climber, Robert Schauer from Graz, reached the summit in the same
Göschl wants to climb the technically challenging north eastern ridge from
Tibet without use of bottles. The most difficult parts are on the summit
ridge in an altitude of 8500m to 8650m, three steep rocky promontories must be
climbed. The ridge to the summit is more than 2km long, on both sides of the
ridge there are near vertical 3000m steep walls.
Since the ABC (6450m) on Everest is quite high,
Gerfried Goeschl does not want to acclimatize painfully on Everest. He plans
after a climb of over 8000m on Shisha Pangma to reach the Everest basecamp
fully acclimatized and in best condition and wait for best weather.
will try to reach the summit with two bivouacs (7600m, 8150m).
to statistics, the best weather to reach the summit of Everest are between May
17 and May 26, during this time he will stay in the basecamp and use the best
day for the climb.
Professional Team 2005:
Northland Professional Team 2005 consists of three climbers:
Gerfried Goeschl (32) from Styria, Austria
Alpine Rescue Team Gesaeuse
expeditions (South America, Asia):
Momhil Shar (7343m) up to 6500m
Muztagh Ata (7546m)
Gasherbrum 1 (8068m) up to 7500m
Gasherbrum 2 (8035m)
Hubert Rieger (31) from upper Austria
expedition leader and camera team
film and TV
local European tours Dachstein, Glockner
Eastern Alps: Piz Palü, Piz Bernina.
Expeditions to South America (2002 und 2004):
Aconcagua, Illimani, Huyana Potosi, Parinacota, Pomerape.
Alpamayo chico, Ilusion.
Unterberger (38) from Styria
leader of Austrian Mountain Rescue Team in Selzthal
north face, Grosse Zinne north face, Cima Canali Buhlweg, and many more
Expeditions to India (1991) and South America (1996):
Barthakuna (6560m), Ojos del Salado (6880m)
members of the Shisha Pangma Expedition:
Greetings from Nyalam
Hello again! Since yesterday
we stay in Nyalam. All 11 members made trips up to 4400m today and feel good.
Real bad weather here. We will leave Nyalam at Monday to reach BC of Shisha.
Greetings, Gerfried and team
Update 4/6/2005: Hi from KTM!
Tomorrow me and my team is going to Zangmu, it seems there are no problems
with the Maoists! All members are well!!! Greetings from KTM Gerfried
Previous Update is below
Gerfried Goeschl from Austria
who summited Cho Oyu on May 3rd, 2003 will lead a group of 12 to Shisha Pangma
(normal route 6 Austrians, 5 Germanys including two women, 1 Dutch) and then
after Shisha head over to Everest for a push to the top alone and without
"Alone I will stay in Tibet,
have some rest in Tingri and change to Everest. I have interesting plans for
Everest from the North side, alone and without artificial oxygen. I will wait
for the weather window till the end of May. My flight from Kathmandu to Europe
will be at 4 June." Greetings from Austria, Gerfried Göschl
members for Shisha:
Göschl (32), leader
Rieger (31), co-leader
Georg (26) und Hans (34) Wenzl
Andrea Lakatos (39), climbed Cho Oyu 2002
Helga Schubert (44)
are in a good shape.
planed we will leave 4. April from Munich.
from Austria, Gerfried Göschl
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