/MT.EVEREST EXPEDITION 2005: Two summits in 4 weeks:
successful climb of Shisha Pangma Main (8027m) on May 03 2005, Gerfried Göschl
succeeded on June 01, 2005 after waiting for quite some time for the right
weather conditions to climb Mt.Everest (8848m) alone and without use of
stopping one day in Tingri (4350m), Gerfried starts the ascent to the
Mt.Everest ABC in 6400m after handing over the responsibility to take home the
Shisha Pangma expedition to his vice-leader Hubert Rieger.
the weather proves that the hope for a fast run to the summit is premature:
extreme cold and wind speeds of up to 100km/h prevent the immediate start.
starts the first attempt on May 19, but also due to extreme wind speeds and
low temperatures, he turns back after reaching 7600m together with another
Austrian, Hans Goger. His girlfriend Heike is much reassured by his common
sense, and still encourages him to keep to his decision to go without oxygen.
of Hans was also climbing without Sherpas, but wanted to use oxygen from Camp
descending to Tingri and filling up there electrolyte deposits with the aid of
the local beer, Hans and Gerfried start the second attempt together reaching
ABC again on May 24.
On May 29,
with a promising 3-day weather forecast, Gerfried start from the ABC for the
summit, and reach Camp II in 7550m after eight hours (including 1 ½ hours
rest). On North Col he meets up with Hans and Marcin Miotk from Poland, who
started one day before. They decided to work together and climbed up for Camp
II in upcoming snowstorm.
and I spent the night together in my Northland expedition sleeping bag, due to
the big volume in the footpart it was quite comfortable and warm, also the
tent was very durable” Gerfried reports.
changing weather conditions and gusty winds they leave Camp II after extensive
cooking and drinking lots of liquids around noon time, planning to reach Camp
III in the evening.
is well ahead, but because of very strong wind they are loosing too much time
and he decides to descend a few meters to meet his comrades and they camp
below Camp III in 7850m.
Gerfried’s condition, spirits are good, and the weather seems to get better,
he decides to make the run to the summit the next day, so he puts his wrist
alarm clock under his head, otherwise he can’t hear anything due to the
extreme wind noise, and gets up every hour to check the weather. Surprisingly,
he also manages to sleep in between, and because of the strong wind he starts
the long solid climb very late at 5.00 a.m. on June 01 2005.
optimistic to reach the summit after 10-12 hours climbing.
is quite smooth, and at 8.00 a.m. he reaches Camp III, where the sherpa of
another expedition indicates the direction to the summit, astonished to find a
solitary climber so late.
the Brazilian expedition offers him a welcome cup of tea.
for about 6 hours until he reaches 8500m, during this time, he manages more
than 100m altitude per hour. Then the going becomes more technical and slow
because of the three rocky steps.
meeting on the way: Marko from Slovenia, whom Gerfried met in base camp of the
Russian group a few days earlier when playing chess with the expedition leader
Alex Abramov, made a tragic mistake with his oxygen bottles: on the way to the
summit, he deposited his full bottle for the descent, and started the climb to
the summit with only the half full bottle, and on the way down from the
summit, he broke down and suffocated.
„third step“, Gerfried had to trudge through knee deep freshly fallen snow,
hard work after the long and arduous climb! And yet he felt happy to step to
the summit through virgin snow, no other tracks visible than his own.
On June 1
2005, 17:30 p.m. local time, he finally reaches the summit of Mt. Everest!!
everything has to happen very fast, fortunately he planned every move:
A photo of
the summit to show he was there, one photo with the picture of Heike as
promised to her, and then placing his “lucky potato”, which he carried for 2
months on all mountains, to finally deposit it on Mt. Everest as a sign of
fertility and as a symbol of Austrian soil.
15 Minutes on the summit, he starts to descend: it is vital to get over the
technically challenging part at second step before it gets dark.
p.m., the last rays of the sun show him the way through this tricky part, then
suddenly it gets totally dark. By the light of his headlamp, he descends for
four hours down to 8250m.
below the summit, Gerfried has some frightening moments: suddenly he cannot
see on one eye, and worries that he may have become snow blind by taking of
his glasses to wipe away snow two times during the ascent – but “luckily” it
turned out to be “only” some internal bleeding of the cornea, which may happen
in the “death zone” of extreme altitude due to the low air pressure.
accident happens further down: climbing down, the connection of the glove and
overall suddenly breaks, and the glove disappears forever.
planning – he has a spare glove in his knee pocket – but the short time of
putting it on is enough to freeze the finger tips of his right hand.
p.m. finally he reaches Camp III in 8250m. He didn’t find his friend Hans
Goger, but George Dijmarescu and Lakpa offered him a place in there tent
because they started same time for the summit.
III the worst night of his life is just about to begin:
dehydrated, exhausted, and also slightly confused by lack of oxygen, he can
only think of getting enough liquid into his starved body. But the camp is
already deserted, the other climbers have left for their own ascent, and
Gerfried only now finds out that he left his lighter with his two climbing
unnecessary movement is using up precious oxygen, so very slowly and carefully
(the camp is located on a steep place) he starts to crawl from tent to tent
only in his inner shoes looking for some means to light his stove and melt
snow for drinking - it takes hours, but unfortunately in vain, with moments of
blackest despair and helplessness.
morning, very carefully and with rest periods every 10 minutes, Gerfried
descends down to the ABC at 6400m, which he reaches at 10:00 p.m.
7900m George and Lakpa met him up and helped him coming down to North Col, he
is slowly and tired having no water.
In ABC an
Indian Air Force expedition immediately provides glucose drinks and Cortisone,
the offered oxygen Gerfried rejects – he must also make the descent without
good rest during the night in a tent of Brazil friend Toto, Gerfried feels
little better and descends down to the base camp in 5170m together with Hans.
Hans summited also, 2nd of June, and came down from North Col on 3rd. A big
success for both climbers. After a short stop in BC to collect there gear they
continue down to Tingri per Jeep same day.
brief rest, they are on the road to Kathmandu again, and manages to catch
there return flight back to Austria on the afternoon of June 4.
Due to all
the hurry, only after he sits back in the plane with nothing to do, he finally
finds time to savour his experiences and to realize what he has achieved, he
nearly cannot believe that he managed to reach all his goals: the three
“training mountain” (6350m, 6520m, 7068m), Shisha Pangma, and finally, alone
without oxygen on Mt. Everest !
reunion with girlfriend Heike in Munich is very emotional, after 2 months of
waiting: “Heike gave me very strong emotional support during the whole time,
it was she who pushed me to keep to my resolve to climb without oxygen.”
Susan Borufka Northland Professional
Editorial Note: There is
no doubt about his summit. One, he has provided us with pictures which we will
post in the coming weeks. Two, he was seem going up the summit pyramid by
Professional expedition climbing Shisha Pangma
(8027m) & Mount Everest (8848m) Spring 2005
..Tested under extreme conditions..
plan: Spring 2005 Gerfried Goeschl leads the Northland Professional expedition
to climb Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. The international team consisting of
11 members want to climb to the summit via the north ridge. Four Austrians,
five Germans (two women) and one climber from the Netherlands will accompany
leave Europe on April 4 for Kathmandu, and April 14 the first basecamp (ABC)
in 5600m in Tibet will be established.
with his friends Guenther Unterberger and Hubert Rieger Gerfried wants to
acclimatize on the mountain and try the climb to the summit. They group will
leave Tibet on May 15 and return via Kathmandu back to Austria on May 18.
will stay in Tibet and rest in Tingri (4350m) for two or three days, and will
then proceed to the northern basecamp of Mount Everest (8848m).
From upper basecamp (6450m) he will start for the summit
without oxygen. His return is planned for June 5.
Shisha Pangma (8027m):
Pangma was the last of the fourteen 8000m high mountains which was climbed in
1964 by a group of Chinese and Tibetan climbers. Shisha Pangma is the only
8000m high mountain which is completely located within the Tibetan borders.
technical difficulties of the mountain apart from the extreme altitude are
near the summit, very steep and exposed traverses above 7800m make reaching
the seldom climbed main summit difficult.
climbers from Styria, Austria who climbed Shisha Pangma were the well known
climber Hanns Schell in 1985 with Thomas Schilcher.
Mount Everest (8848m):
Everest is well known as the highest mountain on earth. The summit is located
exactly on the border between Nepal and China/Tibet.
first ascent was made by the New Zealand climber Edmund Hillary and Sherpa
Tensing Norgay in 1953 from the southern side in Nepal, which is the normal
route today, after the many expeditions through the preceding decades failed.
climbers who reached the summit without oxygen were Peter Habeler from Tyrol
and Reinhold Messner from South Tyrol in 1978. The first and up to now only
Styrian climber, Robert Schauer from Graz, reached the summit in the same
Göschl wants to climb the technically challenging north eastern ridge from
Tibet without use of “bottles”. The most difficult parts are on the summit
ridge in an altitude of 8500m to 8650m, three steep rocky promontories must be
climbed. The ridge to the summit is more than 2km long, on both sides of the
ridge there are near vertical 3000m steep walls.
Since the ABC (6450m) on Everest is quite high,
Gerfried Goeschl does not want to acclimatize painfully on Everest. He plans
after a climb of over 8000m on Shisha Pangma to reach the Everest basecamp
fully acclimatized and in best condition and wait for best weather.
will try to reach the summit with two bivouacs (7600m, 8150m).
to statistics, the best weather to reach the summit of Everest are between May
17 and May 26, during this time he will stay in the basecamp and use the best
day for the climb.
Professional Team 2005:
Northland Professional Team 2005 consists of three climbers:
Gerfried Goeschl (32) from Styria, Austria
Alpine Rescue Team Gesaeuse
expeditions (South America, Asia):
Momhil Shar (7343m) up to 6500m
Muztagh Ata (7546m)
Gasherbrum 1 (8068m) up to 7500m
Gasherbrum 2 (8035m)
Hubert Rieger (31) from upper Austria
expedition leader and camera team
film and TV
local European tours Dachstein, Glockner
Eastern Alps: Piz Palü, Piz Bernina.
Expeditions to South America (2002 und 2004):
Aconcagua, Illimani, Huyana Potosi, Parinacota, Pomerape.
Alpamayo chico, Ilusion.
Unterberger (38) from Styria
leader of Austrian Mountain Rescue Team in Selzthal
north face, Grosse Zinne north face, Cima Canali Buhlweg, and many more
Expeditions to India (1991) and South America (1996):
Barthakuna (6560m), Ojos del Salado (6880m)
members of the Shisha Pangma Expedition:
Greetings from Nyalam
Hello again! Since yesterday
we stay in Nyalam. All 11 members made trips up to 4400m today and feel good.
Real bad weather here. We will leave Nyalam at Monday to reach BC of Shisha.
Greetings, Gerfried and team
Update 4/6/2005: Hi from KTM!
Tomorrow me and my team is going to Zangmu, it seems there are no problems
with the Maoists! All members are well!!! Greetings from KTM Gerfried
Previous Update is below
Gerfried Goeschl from Austria
who summited Cho Oyu on May 3rd, 2003 will lead a group of 12 to Shisha Pangma
(normal route 6 Austrians, 5 Germanys including two women, 1 Dutch) and then
after Shisha head over to Everest for a push to the top alone and without
"Alone I will stay in Tibet,
have some rest in Tingri and change to Everest. I have interesting plans for
Everest from the North side, alone and without artificial oxygen. I will wait
for the weather window till the end of May. My flight from Kathmandu to Europe
will be at 4 June." Greetings from Austria, Gerfried Göschl
members for Shisha:
Göschl (32), leader
Rieger (31), co-leader
Georg (26) und Hans (34) Wenzl
Andrea Lakatos (39), climbed Cho Oyu 2002
Helga Schubert (44)
are in a good shape.
planed we will leave 4. April from Munich.
from Austria, Gerfried Göschl
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