Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Lhotse 2005: Joao Garcia's Journal April 2005


April 20: We spent, in fact, a good night, with less cold and wind than in camp 1.  We decided to return to base camp early, where we will stay a few days for rest.  On the way we saw that it snowed for a few hours on base camp and the passage of this weather front should have been responsible for the "warmness" of the previous night...  Tomorrow (today) we will bake bread with our solar oven, we will rest.  I want to see if I can interview the blind Canadian who will climb Everest.  On the 23 we plan to climb again, to get to the location of camp 3 on the 24 to install the tent.

Then we will go back down to base camp.  We will rest on April 25. For sure.

April 19: Climb from camp 1 to camp 2, after a good night's sleep. We unmounted the camp and, with no rush, carrying heavy backpacks, we will get to the location of camp 2.  The trail climbs up slowly, over a flat and higher part of Khumbu.

On paper, we just climbed 400 meters of difference along four kilometers, but the crevasses (cracks on ice) make us take a lot of detours, a constant zigzag.  When we arrive to the place, at 6,400 m, we build a platform with rock sediments from the moraine of the glacier and here we install our little blue tent.  Since we felt ok, we decided to spend one more night here.  It is a good way to accelerate acclimatization of our bodies.

April 18: We decided not to leave early to camp 1, as we did the other time, because we will have to spend the night and be there a lot of time.  We have improving our time to climb, which means we are acclimatizing well and we are improving our performance.  We reached the tent, at 6,000 m, and the day was hard: it was too hot inside the tent and too cold outside... This camp 1, is definitively, a place to avoid in the future.

April 17: Day of "Puja".  It all started excitedly in the morning, with the preparations, because it was a festive day for cult, to ask for good luck for the expedition.  They brought prayer flags from Pangboche, blessed by a Lama, offers, and a lot of alcohol -"rak chii" and "tchang", a Nepalese beer.  Our "kitchen boy" and a Lama monk, read the prayers with different tones and cutting words, from time to time, with an instrument and a drum.  The assistant behind him, listened serenely, everybody was sitting down.  We were handed rice and flour to be thrown to the altar.  At the end we ate the offers and we had lunch... The altar is circular, in the shape of two Buddhist temples, and in the middle there was a mast, from where the ropes are tied, with the prayer flags, like a bicycle wheel hub.  The flags have prayers written on them and are blown by the wind, which according to local tradition, transport them everywhere.  The body of Buda is a mass, a "tsampa", a kind of fried and grounded barley was also brought.  It is presented like a symbolic body, which we all eat at the end.  We put the equipment close to the altar to be blessed - I put my piolet, there were people who put everything, from head to toes.  That was our day of rest, with a lot of food and liquids.

Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera

Previous Update

Joao is best known as an Summiter of Everest without oxygen. He is a member of Dan Mazur's Lhotse expedition this year (unguided of course).

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

 







 

 

Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



  



Send email to  • Copyright© 1998-2014  EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it