We spent, in fact, a good night, with less cold and wind than in camp 1. We
decided to return to base camp early, where we will stay a few days for rest.
On the way we saw that it snowed for a few hours on base camp and the passage
of this weather front should have been responsible for the "warmness" of the
previous night... Tomorrow (today) we will bake bread with our solar oven, we
will rest. I want to see if I can interview the blind Canadian who will climb
Everest. On the 23 we plan to climb again, to get to the location of camp 3
on the 24 to install the tent.
Then we will go back down to
base camp. We will rest on April 25. For sure.
Climb from camp 1 to camp 2, after a good night's sleep. We unmounted
the camp and, with no rush, carrying heavy backpacks, we will get to the
location of camp 2. The trail climbs up slowly, over a flat and higher part
On paper, we just climbed 400
meters of difference along four kilometers, but the crevasses (cracks on ice)
make us take a lot of detours, a constant zigzag. When we arrive to the
place, at 6,400 m, we build a platform with rock sediments from the moraine of
the glacier and here we install our little blue tent. Since we felt ok, we
decided to spend one more night here. It is a good way to accelerate
acclimatization of our bodies.
We decided not to leave early to camp 1, as we did the other time,
because we will have to spend the night and be there a lot of time. We have
improving our time to climb, which means we are acclimatizing well and we are
improving our performance. We reached the tent, at 6,000 m, and the day was
hard: it was too hot inside the tent and too cold outside... This camp 1, is
definitively, a place to avoid in the future.
April 17: Day
of "Puja". It all started excitedly in the morning, with the
preparations, because it was a festive day for cult, to ask for good luck for
the expedition. They brought prayer flags from Pangboche, blessed by a Lama,
offers, and a lot of alcohol -"rak chii" and "tchang", a Nepalese beer. Our
"kitchen boy" and a Lama monk, read the prayers with different tones and
cutting words, from time to time, with an instrument and a drum. The
assistant behind him, listened serenely, everybody was sitting down. We were
handed rice and flour to be thrown to the altar. At the end we ate the offers
and we had lunch... The altar is circular, in the shape of two Buddhist
temples, and in the middle there was a mast, from where the ropes are tied,
with the prayer flags, like a bicycle wheel hub. The flags have prayers
written on them and are blown by the wind, which according to local tradition,
transport them everywhere. The body of Buda is a mass, a "tsampa", a kind of
fried and grounded barley was also brought. It is presented like a symbolic
body, which we all eat at the end. We put the equipment close to the altar to
be blessed - I put my piolet, there were people who put everything, from head
to toes. That was our day of rest, with a lot of food and liquids.
Translated from Portuguese by
Joao is best known as an Summiter of Everest without oxygen. He is a member of
Dan Mazur's Lhotse expedition this year (unguided of course).
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