Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




   Nanga Parbat 2005: Everest Summiter IVAN VALLEJO RICAURTE FROM A BALCONY IN NANGA PARBAT


 

 

Wake up at two in the morning in BC to climb to 6,000 m carrying ropes and my personal equipment, believe it, it is very hard for me.  The first 15 minutes I move as a zombie trying to be lest dumb and trying not to put my socks inside out or salt instead of sugar, in my tea with lemon cup.

 

At 3 in the morning we leave, Hassan and I from our group, and Riki, Nacho and Martin from the Aragon group.  The danger of falling in a crevasse during the first part of the trail wakes me up, crevasses that have been recently opened in the glacier next to BC.  At 5:15 we reach C1 (4,800 m), we hydrate and rest a little before going to C2.

 

Everybody go away, I stay a little longer in my tent, because we are not in a rush today, I have all day to reach C2.  At 6:10 I put my backpack on my shoulders and I am scared f the weight in it.  I have voluntarily decided to collaborate by taking, besides my personal stuff, 140 m of rope split in two rolls of 70 each.  Mentally I repeat myself that I have to take these long hours with philosophy, as my teammate Edurne uses to say, when she wants to refer to take something easy, slowly and without a rush.  I am going through this enormous slope of snow, rocks and ice of more than 1000 m of length, the piolet in my hand, the cane in the other and under the iron in my boots, luckily, the hard snow that resists my steps.  But I feel crushed under the weight of my backpack, I climb very slowly, I donít ascend in an orderly way, very frequently I step on my own feet.  Damn!  Time passes and with such uselessness I recognize that the load is stronger than me. 

 

However, I decide to fight and I have the idea of taking out one of the rolls of rope, open it, extend it and tie it to my waist though the harness to drag it along the slope instead of carrying it.  Letís do it!  Thatís what I do.  The weight of the backpack is lighter, to my happiness.  I start ascending while dragging that plastic snake, but it is too hard; my torso and my waist make an enormous effort to make that unmovable animal crawl.  I fell that the bands of my harness bite my waist and my thighs.  I canít, I canít take it anymore!  And that pretty exercise of recognizing uselessness, I stop again, I untie the rope, I leave it tied to a rock and I continue.  What a relief!

 

The slope is big, but so am I, because I climb with enthusiasm and with happiness, even joking with my teammates.

 

At 10 in the morning, Riki and I stop at the bottom of the Kinshofer wall and we make a line waiting for a turn to climb.  While my colleagues climb, we eat a chocolate bar and drink water.  I did not do it well on the wall the last time, the verticality and flatness of the wall defeated me in some parts, but now I have promised myself to do it better and with elegance.  When my turn comes I leave the crampons, that was the mistake, and I start climbing.  Wonderful, what a joy to climb that way!  My hands and the rock, my feet and the rock, my agitated breath and my body that gains centimeters against gravity.  I even have the luxury of filming Ricardo.  I rest a little, I grab a candy and I go through the last part that is the flattest of all.  One second before I start I say again: You are going to do it nice and enjoying it.  And once again I am sticking to the rock like Peter Parker after becoming Spider Man, trying to reach C2.

 

At 11 in the morning I am once again in C2, we all gather, celebrate and get in the shelter of the tents to escape the brutal heat.  The tent, hanging in the emptiness on the edge of a balcony; the little stove, in a path on the edge of the snow, and Hassan and I inside, resting and rehydrating.

 

The wet clothes on our bodies help lower the temperature, we have to change, especially the socks.  I do it first and when it is Hassanís turn, I donít know why I get the memory of a deli exposing in the window the most mature of the Roquefort cheeses.  Luckily I am just at 6,000 m of altitude, because with that aroma at 7,000, I would suddenly put my head outside the tentís door and threw it all up.

 

Without saying anything and with a nice face I listen what Hassan says in his bad English about Islam, the reason why he is, among other things, the father of five children, one after another, like a rodent.

 

Since I am not bad in the kitchen, you can ask Karma, I start to cook garbanzos with chicken stew and onions rings on olive oil.  All that at 6,000 m: I am a master.

 

-Very good Sir.  Very good cooker Sir

 

The afternoon dies, the sun is going to the other side of the world, a little wind blows and it is cold.  We close the tent, we sink in out sleeping bags and we rest, but for Hassan, with his one meter ninety, the length of the tent is not enough.  He has to cross in diagonal and his legs, long like poles, go on top of mine.  What a night awaits for me!

 

I try not to pay attention and I turn on my frontal lamp and I read the chronicles of Rosa Montero before going to sleep.  Tomorrow we will search for a place for Camp 3.

 

Ivan Vallejo Ricaurte

Expeditioneer

 

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

 

Updates

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75įF Gore-Texģ Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Texģ gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.







 

 

Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



  



Send email to  • Copyright© 1998-2012  EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it