27th day of
the 10 Years of Brazil on Everest Expedition
(6,400 m) / Base Camp (5,400 m)
charge on Everest is beyond expectations!
I came back to base camp after 4 days of intense activity on Everest, on our
first charge we went farther than what we imagined, getting up to 6,700 m. of
objective was to mount camp 1 at 6,100 m., which we did without problems, then
we wanted to go up to the location of camp 2 to then spend one more night in
camp 1 and go back to base camp. But, taking advantage of our good
acclimatization, we installed our camp 2 at 6,400 m., and on the next day we
even did a trail recognition in the direction of the summit getting up to
6,700 m., a part of the climb that has not been covered by any climber this
impressions were the best possible, the mountain has little snow, which means
the progress is fast and safe, on hard snow and with little risk of
Icefall, as always, is scary, with blocks of ice randomly spread everywhere.
This is the passage between base camp and camp 1, where every precaution is
What got us
hard was the wind, strong and freezing. During our night on camp 1 we could
hardly sleep because the wind gust seemed to drag the tent.
But the two
nights we spent in camp 2 were calmer, but cold, with a minimum of -17º C.
Although our tent was installed in a relatively sheltered place, the wind
blew non-stop on the high part of Everest. Our camp 2 was installed at 6,400
m. of altitude, a little below of where it usually is mounted at 6,500 m., but
the place was "reserved" for commercial expeditions.
these "commercial expeditions", we left them very impressed with our real
start of the ascent of Everest. When we got here to base camp we were
surprised with so many expeditions of this kind (where you pay to
participate), really most of them. We thought that the work on the mountain
had progressed, with climbers going up and down every day. But the truth is
that the "clients" have down little or almost nothing so far. We found just a
few tents on camp 2, and even less (maybe 6) on camp 2. Who we saw going up
or down everyday on the Icefall here from base, were the high altitude porters
(Sherpas), at least 100 per day, maybe even 150. They climb loaded with
equipment, they go up to the location of camp 2, which is circled by ropes
which delimit spaces, they stack the equipment and go back down fast to base.
really surprised, we rarely see a "climber" in the superior altitudes and we
did not imagine that we have been the first of the season to sleep in camp 1
and 2, and without a doubt, the first to explore the terrain above camp 2,
where we didn't pass 6,700 m. because we were not conveniently equipped for
that. We are feeling good with the thin air, and the days we have spent at
base camp have had a really good weather, and logically we cannot understand
how many people that came before us have not left base camp.
have a lot of time in front of us, the season has just started but there is
always the doubt if the weather is going to be good now, if it is going to
stay this way until the middle of May, when most people want to attack the
summit. Irivan and I want to be ready as soon as possible and take the first
Look at the
picture of the crevasse, Irivan crossing one of the countless improvised
bridges with aluminum ladders over crevasses in the Icefall, the only way to
pass so many obstacles, because the crevassed in this part of the ascent look
can get an idea of the Icefall, a real chaos of ice blocks that can tumble any
minute, then Irivan and I in two more vertical parts and beside our white tent
in camp 2 (6,400 m), and in the background confused with the blue sky, the
highest point of Everest (8,848 m.)
A big hug,
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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