29th day of the 10 Years of
Brazil on Everest Expedition
Base Camp (5,400 m)
The team is complete
Irivan and I are resting at
Base Camp, after our successful first climb on Everest, when we could install
our camp 2 (6,500 m) and get to 6,700 m of altitude.
On these days we saw the
weather deteriorate a little, today after noon it was almost completely
clouded, but now, at 18 hours, the sunset is the prettiest, the sky is blue
again and the mountains are golden because of the last sunrays (the
thermometer, outside the tent, reads -8ºC).
Since we came down from our
first climb on Everest, we have had company here at Base Camp. Three more
Spanish and one Italian came; they are sharing the costs of the climbing
permit required by the Government of Nepal (a total of 70 thousand dollars).
Dividing this elevated cost is a common figure these days among climbers who
have already been to the Himalayas, the suggestion of dividing the costs among
climbers is from the organizing agency which tries to gather those interested,
as in our case.
Happily the newly arrived are
members of our expedition, we really liked them, they are experienced
climbers, they have all already climbed at least two eight-thousand meter
mountain, besides being very nice. The Spanish are being sponsored by
Universidad Politécnica de Valencia, they brought a number of equipment for
research, like a weather station which was installed here on base and which
registered -12.2ºC last night.
The bad news is that my
throat is bad. I left Brazil with pharngyitis, because I got wet with the
rain in my last trainings. I have had treatment, but with the cold and dry
air of the mountains it has not been easy. I was ok, but the frozen wind that
we found on Everest punished me, and I came bad from Camp 2 again.
Yesterday we had the
traditional "puja" here at base, the traditional Buddhist ceremony done by
every expedition, asking for protection from the gods for our climb. The
Sherpas organize everything, a chorten is made (a kind of stone altar) where
ginepro and incense is burned, our equipments are taken there to be blessed,
and where at the end of the ceremony a mast is raised from where colorful
flags with printed prayers hang. Logically, I asked for good weather and
safety for all our team, but especially for a healing to my throat.
Today we had our first
accident here on Everest, a Canadian climber ended sticking his leg in one of
the countless cracks between the blocks of ice on the entire Icefall,
unhappily the inferior part of his leg was broken in two places, the rescue
was done by a large group of Sherpas, and was witnessed from far by everybody
here at base. Tomorrow morning a helicopter will come to take him to a
hospital in Katmandu.
Look at the picture of the
crevasse, our team finally complete. The picture was taken today in our mess
tent, during lunch, on the left Jorge Verdeguer White, 30, Irivan and the
Spanish David Rosa Moñez, 31, on the right me, the Italian Zubani Diego, 45,
and the Spanish Juan José Haya Sancho, 33. As I had told you before, we are
in the same team, sharing the infrastructure of Base Camp, in the beginning,
Irivan and I will continue with our strategy, doing the climb independently,
because we are more acclimatized than them and well into the mountain.
Look below at the pictures of
the Icefall, where every care is little. There are a lot of improvised bridges
with aluminum ladders to cross the crevassed, five of them were joined
together to jump over a wall of ice of 15 meters that is located at the end of
the Icefall, and the other picture gives you and idea of how deep a crevasse
can be and how delicate it is to cross one of those bridges, they are
unstable, the swing and tinkling in your tummy is unavoidable.
It is important to continue
being confident, that the season will have an stable weather and that health
comes back soon.
A big hug,
Translated from Portuguese by
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