32nd day of the 10 Years of
Brazil on Everest Expedition
Base Camp (5,400 m)
Days of rest.
This is our 5th days of rest
after our first attack on Everest, we wanted to climb again today, but we have
good reasons not to be in a hurry.
The first, the most important
of them, is my health. Unhappily I got a great infection in my mouth and
throat, I am taking antibiotics to deal with the problem. Today, the fifth
day of the treatment, my throat is better, but my doctor from Brazil made me
swear I would rest for seven days.
The second reason for not
being in a hurry, is that the weather is unstable. I snowed during the last
three days, more each day. Yesterday it actually snowed the whole day,
something around 5 cm here in base. Today we had a sunny morning, but now, at
noon, the clouds are coming from the bottom of the valley, covering
everything. Pumori (7,165 m), which rises to the west of our camp, is already
covered by the clouds, but the massif trio of Everest/Lhotse/Nuptse, which
rise to the south, and where our climbing route goes, is under a blue sky.
All this environment can be taken by the clouds in a matter of minutes, and
the glad sensation of warmness that we are having, with the +7ºC and 18% of
relative humidity here at base (please note, these conditions are really
comfortable), could become really disgusting, the sun just has to hide
completely and the sensation of the temperature drops about 10 degrees, and
with the snow, the humidity triples easily (nothing worst than humid cold).
In the middle of all this
weather confusion, the forecasts say that this will last until Sunday, our
body will suffer the consequences, respiratory problems, as mine, are the most
common. Then other problems related to dry thin air come, headache,
dehydration, general bad feeling, which is the famous mountain sickness, but
not Irivan or me are having that sickness, which means that we are well
acclimatized, because our preparation phase has been a success, with the
ascent of Mera Peak (6,476 m).
What should we do in the
meantime? Patience, my friends. Since me and Irivan don't like the aspect of
the Icefall at all, we don't want to pass there a lot of times. We decided we
will do two more climbs on Everest, when the weather is good. On our next
climb we want to install and spend one night in camp 3 (7,300 m). Then we go
back to base to rest a few days. And, finally, if we are ok, when the weather
gives us a chance, we will climb again with the hope to realize our final
attack, which means, to reach the 8,848 m. of altitude of Everest.
Not really, we know that. Here everything can get complicated from one
hour to the next, we are always depending on a truce from one of the most
savage and hostile parts of nature. We immensely respect that nature, this
gigantic mountain that fascinates us and we know that without her consent we
will never make our dream come true, to reach to its highest altitudes.
Well, I finish here, in 29
minutes the clouds will cover Nuptse and the West Ridge of Everest, the
temperature rose a degree and the humidity jumped to 49%, it will take some
other 29 minutes more to begin snowing.
In the picture, the typical
atmosphere of base camp in the last days, snow and cold.
I wish a weekend without snow
and warmer for everybody, hugs,
Translated from Portuguese by
A story from their trek in: Something curious happened to us during our trek
towards Mera Peak. We were met by Maoist guerrillas, the meeting was peaceful,
they wrote down our names and the name of each of our porters and demanded a
"donation" from me and from Irivan of 6 thousand rupees and 100 rupees for
each of the porters. It totals around 100 dollars. The Maoists even extended
a receipt that proves our "donation" to be presented to other groups we might
find, which is very likely. We saw the symbol of the sickle and hammer
painted on stones and some plates where "Nepal communist party, Maoists" could
Translated from Portuguese by
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