50th day of the 10 Years of
Brazil on Everest Expedition
Base Camp (5,400m)
A few minutes ago, at 17h00,
we finally had radio contact with our Sherpas, a contact we had waited for an
entire day. The news is not good at all.
Irivan and I hired two high
altitude carriers (Sherpas), two brothers, Pemba and Dawa. The Spanish who
are in our expedition, Jorge, David and Haya, with whom we are having an
excellent relation, good enough to maybe make the final attack together, also
hired two Sherpas to help them climb Everest, Nawan and Pema. Well, who hired
the Sherpas for us was our agency in Katmandu, and later, we discovered that
Nawan is the father of Pemba and Dawa and uncle of Pema.
From the beginning I wanted
to make it clear to Nawan that we had nothing to do with the Spanish, so Pemba
and Dawa would work just for Irivan and me, carrying our heaviest loads to the
superior camps, which is the basic work of Sherpas here on Everest. But the
Sherpa father, from the beginning, didn't think that way, and assumed that we
and the Spanish were just one team. Well, the trouble is that Pemba and Dawa
are strong, the father, Nawan, is not so good, and the young Pema is a little
Yesterday our Sherpas went
up, all together, to camp 2, under the leadership of old and experienced Nawan,
who has participated in 53 expeditions on the mountains of Nepal (and he has
made it 4 times to the summit of Everest). The plan, made by Nawan himself,
was that they would get to the South Col today, the location of camp 4. We
warned that the forecast was of strong winds, more than 120 Km/h on the summit
Well, not only our Sherpas,
but around 80 of them tried to get to the South Col, which is practically at 8
thousand meters of altitude. The forecasted weather for that altitude of the
South Col was of around 70 Km/h, and the temperature was -24ºC.
According to information we
had through radio moments ago from Nawan, only 4 of the around 80 Sherpas made
it to the South Col today, the wind was very strong, the cold or the thermal
sensation was an absurd. Our Sherpas got to the Yellow Band (7,500m), a big
strip of yellow rock that is in the middle of the Lhotse Face, after camp
3(7,300m). They made a depot there with the equipment they carried and turned
around to camp 2 (6,400m).
The worst news is that Pema
could not stand the cold and has two frozen fingers. According to Nawan, he is
coming down to base camp, and here we are anxiously waiting to treat his
We don't get tired of
studying the possibilities of the attack, with the data we get from the
weather forecasts. We still have a little hope that we will climb tomorrow,
but we will only take a decision after we get the new forecast that will come
from Spain today at 21h00.
Today I send two pictures I
have just shot, with the mountains being touched by the last sunrays of the
day. In the first picture Nuptse and in the bottom the West Ridge of Everest,
note how the wind tears with violence the crystals of ice and snow from the
mountain, the are winds of at least 80 Km/h.
A big hug,
Translated from Portuguese by
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