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  Mt. Everest 2005: Waldemar Niclevicz: The final attack begins May 28!


Photo Waldemar Niclevicz

 

05/26/2005

66th day of the 10 years of Brazil on Everest Expedition

Base camp (5,400m)

The final attack begins May 28!

 

Dear Friends!

 

After waiting a lot of time, after analyzing forecast after forecast, we finally have defined our strategy for our definitive attack of the summit of Everest.

 

We will start our last climb on the 28, Saturday, with the hope to get to the top of Everest on June 1 or 2.

 

We leave our final attack for the last days, not by chance, but because the forecasts didn't give any assurance for the previous dates, and it would be impossible later, because the ladders and the fixed lines on the Icefall will be unmounted.

 

More than half the climbers that waned to climb Everest this year by Nepal have gone.  Counting the 23 expeditions, there were approximately 350 people in base camp, between climbers and Sherpas.  The last "cense" was done on the 23, during a bit meeting to discuss how and when to make the final attack, and the conclusion was that there were only 140 people inhabiting base camp.

 

Well, everyday people are still leaving, time goes by fast at the end, many have compromises, and many lost their patience.

 

On the meeting of the 23, it was decided that today, 26, there should be a group made by 10 Sherpas, strongly equipped, ready to go from camp 2.  So if the weather shows signals of improvement, this group should go to camp 4, and then to the summit of Everest, preparing the way for the clients of the commercial expeditions.  The weather, in fact, has been slowly improving each day, but the wind is going to be very strong in the next days.  Even so, the "attack platoon" hopes to get to the summit of Everest on the 29 or 30. That provoked a lot of movement here yesterday and today, practically everybody went up to camp 2, and base camp is practically deserted.

 

Why don't we climb?.  Well, because the forecast for the 29 and 30 are winds of 60 to 80 KM/h on the summit.  And because after the 31 the winds should go down to less than 30 Km/h.  And since we only have one chance, we choose the best of them.

 

Another motive, is that on the days of the 29 and 30, at least 100 people should attack the summit of Everest, generating a considerable jam.  On the 1st there should be less people, 40 at the most, I hope.

 

Our team is excited, Irivan and I, the Spaniards from Valencia (David, Jorge and Haya) and also our Sherpas (Pempa, Dawa, Nawan, Lapka, Janak, Dit and Nima).

 

We hope to infect everyone with our enthusiasm that this climb will be crowned with success, with the Brazilian Flag waiving on the Top of the World.

 

In today's picture, all our team together.  Standing up, from left to right: David, Waldemar, Janak (cook), Pemba (our high altitude carrier), Jorge, Irivan and Haya.  Sitting down, from left to right: Nima (kitchen aid), Dawa (our high altitude carrier), Lapka (high altitude carrier for the Spaniards), Dit (kitchen aid) and Nawan (high altitude carrier for the Spaniards).

 

A big hug,

 

Waldemar Niclevicz

 

Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera

 

Dispatches

 

 

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