Mt. Everest 2006: FANTASY INTO REALITY

Bottom of Fantasy Ridge: it starts with a steep technical climb and then with an awkward almost horizontal pitch before some elevation is gain.

Fantasy Ridge is the last major unclimbed ridge of Mt. Everest.  Although there have been more than two thousand summits of Everest, no summit was ever achieved by way of Fantasy Ridge.  Furthermore, less than a handful of expeditions have succeeded on the Kangshung side of the mountain.

The ridge presents a formidable challenge: first, because of the lack of any precise information regarding its geography; second, lack of evaluation of the make up of rock and snow; and third, the unknown
but ever-present danger of avalanche.  The ridge is also exposed to the full strength of morning sun which normally amplifies the danger of falling rock and melting ice which produces avalanches.

Fantasy Ridge was named by George Leigh Mallory.  It is thought that the name refers to the impossible difficulty of the terrain and the belief that a successful traverse exists only in “fantasy.”  Also referred to as East Ridge due to its position in relation to Mt. Everest, the name Fantasy Ridge stuck. The ridge presents an awkward, long, almost horizontal pitch with cornice ridges often on both sides.  Attacking the ridge will require a new, radical approach, including the possibility of climbing early mornings and at night when the sun is less of a factor.  The ascent is a combination of alpine and expedition style.  The latter style will be employed as insurance against the need for evacuation, either for injury or because further progress is impossible.

Previous attempts by classical approach from Kharta had the problem of the two week trek to base camp during which time expeditions faced delay and exhaustion. 

Our approach has never been considered.

Second half of Fantasy Ridge: Crevasses were observed at this altitude but an alpine style will be almost certain the choice of ascent.

Acknowledging the reality of an almost impossible rescue evacuation in case of serious injury, ropes will be necessary to leave behind an exit strategy. Upon reaching the bottom of the ridge, a decision will be made based on the ground snow and ice conditions. An early start of the expedition gives a better chance of avoiding avalanches and falling rock by climbing in colder temperatures.  On the other hand, the colder temperatures are more likely to produce frostbite and prolonged exposure.  Conditions will be carefully weighed before we choose the lesser evil.  From this point on there will be little permanent fixed rope. Traveling light and fast will be the goal.

As formidable as it may seem, the East Ridge ends on the Northeast Ridge at 7800 meters, more than 1000 meters below the summit of Mt Everest.  From there the notorious Pinnacles will have to be overcome.  This presents a classic, highly technical high altitude mountaineering climb.  At that time the mountain conditions, the time left in the expedition and our over all physical and mental condition will determine how we will proceed for the summit.

Coming in Spring 2006: The Everest Fantasy Ridge: Become a sponsor Today! See here for more.

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