Peak (6614 m)
2005-06-18 We are now in Laila
Peak Base Camp at the altitude of 4150 meters. From Skardu we had a long jeep
ride on small bumpy roads, through villages and military check points, ending
up in Hushe. A small village with farmers that in the summer becomes porters
for trekkers and expeditions.
talking to these people that have been working as porters for ages and helped
legends like Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander on their visits to the
Karakoram. According to the local people in Hushe there have been only two
successful climbs of Laila Peak, a total of only seven people have summited.
No one has skied. We had two days of nice trekking surrounded by the mighty
Karakoram Mountains to Dalsan, also known as Laila Peak Base Camp. It’s nice
here at Laila Peak Base Camp; we are all alone and have pitched our tents
beside a small lake. We have a kitchen tent where our cook Muhammad Ali is
serving some delicious Pakistani food. Since we can’t see the mountain from
our camp, we went on a short hike up the Gondogoro glacier yesterday, to get
our first view of Laila Peak. It’s an amazing mountain and I can see why the
Balti people named the peak after a beautiful woman.
We spent a
few hours checking out the mountain for a route to climb and a line to ski.
The condition on the mountain looks good and we are really looking forward to
start climbing. But first we have to get rid of our stomach problems. We must
have eaten or drunk something we shouldn’t have because for the last week both
I and Jorgen have been running back and forth to the toilet. Thanks to ”Double
Horse Toilet Tissues” we are still up and running. Hopefully we will be fit to
start climbing within a few days. Fredrik
Karakorams in Pakistan contains some of the most spectacular mountains in the
world. Here you’ll find Laila Peak (6614 m), which is said to be the most
beautiful mountain in Asia. No one has ever skied that mountain. Fredrik
Ericsson and Jörgen Aamot are, this summer, taking on that challenge, as the
first in the world they will try to ski descend the steep slopes of Laila
all, after Laila Peak they will continue up the Baltoro Valley to make an
attempt to ski descend an unskied line on Gasherbrum 2 (8035 m), the 13th
highest mountain in the world.
Ericsson is a skier and mountaineer that’s spending most of his time in the
mountains around Chamonix, France. He has gained a position as one of the top
ski mountaineers in the world after ski descents of Shisha Pangma (8013 m) in
Tibet and Peak Somoni (7495 m) in Tajikistan. Fredrik has also first ski
descents in Sarek National Park, Spitsbergen and the Hurrungane mountains in
Norway. This year he’s looking forward to ski his second 8000-meters peak.
Aamot grew up in the mountains of Oppdal, Norway. He’s teaching skiing,
climbing and avalanche awareness at the Hallingdal College in Gol, Norway.
During the last few years he’s gathered multiple first ski descents throughout
Norway for example in the Lyngen Alps, Hurrungane and Sunndalen Alps. This
will be his first encounter with the high mountains of Karakoram.
Expedition: On June 8, Fredrik and Jörgen will fly to Islamabad in Pakistan.
After a few days of sorting out permits and general preparations they will
continue up north to the Karakoram Mountains. First they will travel with
jeeps via Skardu to Hushe and from there continue on foot. Porters will help
out carrying gear up to Laila Peak Base Camp which they will reach after 7
days. Thereafter they will use a couple of weeks for acclimatisation and
climbing to make it up to the top of Laila Peak, 6614 meters. That’s when the
big adventures start. Fredrik and Jörgen will try to ski the steep west face
of Laila Peak, something that’s never been done before.
Laila Peak they will continue up the Baltoro Valley via Gondogoro pass and
Concordia to the Gasherbrum glacier where the Gasherbrum Base Camp is situated
at 5200 meters. During the next few weeks they will try to climb Gasherbrum 2
(8035 m) which is the 13th highest peak in the world. Well on the summit
Fredrik and Jörgen will try to ski descend the mountain via an unskied line.
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