Pakistan Ski Expedition 2005: Gasherbrum 2

Update: Gasherbrum 2

About a week ago we arrived at the Gasherbrum Base Camp. It’s located on a moraine ridge, at the altitude of 5045 meters, beside the South Gasherbrum Glacier. We have a great view from our tents here, surrounded by the Gasherbrum peaks, Baltoro Kangri, Sia Kangri and other beautiful mountains.

The journey from Laila Peak Base Camp didn’t go without problems. It took us seven days instead of normally four. First of all we didn’t have enough porters so some of them had to work double shifts. Then heavy snowfall delayed our crossing of the Gondogoro pass with a few days. When crossing the Gondogoro pass the porters forgot to use their sunglasses and next day half the porters were snow blind and couldn’t go. After a week of trekking we finally reached the Gasherbrum Base Camp and could get ourselves installed. We are sharing camp with a group of Russian climbers and Swedish adventurer Janne Corax. In total there are 15 teams of different nationalities here in Base Camp going for the Gasherbrums.

After seven days of snowfall the sun was finally shining again and we started up the ice fall on the South Gasherbrum Glacier. Lots of seracs and crevasses, but moving during the night made it possible to cross. Camp 1 is located at the altitude of 5900 meters at the foot of Gasherbrum 2. We spent two nights in camp 1 before heading up a steeper snow slope and ridge up to 6500 meters where we set our camp 2. Two nights in camp 2 and a little reconnaissance trip up towards camp 3 before the snowfall started again and we returned to Base Camp.  We are now in Base Camp, trying to eat and rest as much as possible before we head up the mountain again. Next time we will go for the summit. Fredrik

Photos:  Fredrik Ericsson and Jörgen Aamot

Updates

Background: The Karakorams in Pakistan contains some of the most spectacular mountains in the world. Here you’ll find Laila Peak (6614 m), which is said to be the most beautiful mountain in Asia. No one has ever skied that mountain. Fredrik Ericsson and Jörgen Aamot are, this summer, taking on that challenge, as the first in the world they will try to ski descend the steep slopes of Laila Peak.

That’s not all, after Laila Peak they will continue up the Baltoro Valley to make an attempt to ski descend an unskied line on Gasherbrum 2 (8035 m), the 13th highest mountain in the world.

Fredrik Ericsson is a skier and mountaineer that’s spending most of his time in the mountains around Chamonix, France. He has gained a position as one of the top ski mountaineers in the world after ski descents of Shisha Pangma (8013 m) in Tibet and Peak Somoni (7495 m) in Tajikistan. Fredrik has also first ski descents in Sarek National Park, Spitsbergen and the Hurrungane mountains in Norway. This year he’s looking forward to ski his second 8000-meters peak.

Jörgen Aamot grew up in the mountains of Oppdal, Norway. He’s teaching skiing, climbing and avalanche awareness at the Hallingdal College in Gol, Norway. During the last few years he’s gathered multiple first ski descents throughout Norway for example in the Lyngen Alps, Hurrungane and Sunndalen Alps. This will be his first encounter with the high mountains of Karakoram.

The Expedition: On June 8, Fredrik and Jörgen will fly to Islamabad in Pakistan. After a few days of sorting out permits and general preparations they will continue up north to the Karakoram Mountains. First they will travel with jeeps via Skardu to Hushe and from there continue on foot. Porters will help out carrying gear up to Laila Peak Base Camp which they will reach after 7 days. Thereafter they will use a couple of weeks for acclimatisation and climbing to make it up to the top of Laila Peak, 6614 meters. That’s when the big adventures start. Fredrik and Jörgen will try to ski the steep west face of Laila Peak, something that’s never been done before.

After Laila Peak they will continue up the Baltoro Valley via Gondogoro pass and Concordia to the Gasherbrum glacier where the Gasherbrum Base Camp is situated at 5200 meters. During the next few weeks they will try to climb Gasherbrum 2 (8035 m) which is the 13th highest peak in the world. Well on the summit Fredrik and Jörgen will try to ski descend the mountain via an unskied line.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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