Mountain Madness Gasherbrum II 2005: we hope to make a summit push soon

Dispatch: Dispatch #12 - July 14, 2005

Basecamp. The weather forecast calls for about five days of decent conditions coming up, so we have decided to try for the summit in the coming days. Everyone is excited about the adventure ahead. Tonight Nick, Ezet, Saddiq and myself will move up to Camp 1, followed a day later by Megan and Joe. Nick and I will climb to Camp 2 the next day, with our porters in support. >From there we will carry loads to Camp 3 on our third day and be joined back at Camp 2 that night by Megan and Joe. Several other teams will be arriving at Camp 2 then, as well. The next day everyone will move up to Camp 3. Late that night, some expeditions will try for the summit from there; we will join in the attempt, but establish Camp 4 at 7400 meter and after a rest go for the top. That's the plan, anyway. I'll be calling in dispatches from the mountain en route to report our progress. We should be on top on July 19 or 20.

Wish us luck! Charlie

Dispatch #11 - July 13, 2005: Basecamp. As predicted, the weather turned for the worse today and it has been raining and snowing at Basecamp most of the day. Two days ago, Megan and I went up to Camp 1, along with our high altitude porters Ezet and Saddiq. Nick wasn't feeling well, and decided to remain at basecamp (he's feeling fine now). Joe also remained at basecamp, preferring to save his energy for the summit push, which will be coming soon.

The porters returned to basecamp after dropping a load at Camp 1, but Megan and I pushed on to Camp 2 early yesterday, pitching a tent at approximately 6500 meters on a broad snow shoulder. We spent last night there and returned to Basecamp this morning in deteriorating weather. Several other teams also made it to Camp 2 recently, and a few climbers worked on breaking trail to Camp 3.

The weather forecast calls for worsening conditions over the next few days, then some improvement around July 17 for at least three days or so. Like many of the teams here, our time is running short and we hope to make a summit push soon, perhaps during this next spell of good weather. We are coordinating a summit push with other teams, to share the hard work of breaking trail in heavy new snow. Our hope right now is that the current storm and expected high winds don't create excessively hazardous and strenuous, only time will tell. Cheers, Charlie

Updates

Built to handle a myriad of different climbing pursuits, the Ultralight Universal is our best selling crampon. This crampon lives for trekking, glacier travel, or steep couloirs and snowfields. Totally adjustable Zytel straps make this crampon durable and easy to use. Fits everything from moon boots to flip-flops, our lightest crampon available. Weight: 590g Points: 10. See more here.

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes

   Chaco

   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps

   Hestra
   Helmets

   HighGear

   HornyToad
   Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here