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 EverestHistory.com: Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka | ||||||||
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While Messner would finish a year ahead of Kukuczka, it would take Messner 16 years to complete this feat compared to only 8 for Kukuczka. Kukuczka was born in Katowice (Poland) in 1948, and died attempting the South Face of Lhotse on October 24, 1989 at an altitude of about 8200 meters. A second-hand rope he had picked up in a market in Katmandu snapped during the climb plunging him to his death. During his quest for the 14 summits Kukuczka would establish nine new routes and would perform one solo summit, four in alpine style, and four during the winter. In fact given that Kukuczka established so many new routes and made many of his ascents during the winter combined with operating from an impoverished communist country (Kukuczka's equipment was often hand-made and clothes second-hand) many consider his achievement to be greater that Messner's. On May 19, 1980 Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok (on the Polish National Expedition led by Andrezej Zswada) established a new Everest route by following the South Pillar on the right-hand edge of the Southwest Face. It is one of 15 established routes. His 8000-meter climbs included: 1979 - Lhotse 1980 - Mount Everest 1981 - Makalu (solo) 1982 - Broad Peak 1983 - Gasherbrum II 1983 - Gasherbrum I 1984 - Broad Peak 1985 - Dhaulagiri 1985 - Cho Oyu 1985 - Nanga Parbat 1986 - Kangchenjunga 1986 - K2 1986 - Manaslu 1987 - Annapurna I 1987 - Shishapangma 1989 - Lhotse Unclimbed South Face in winter (died)
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