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 K2 Year 2000 Coverage

China Karakoram 2000 Expedition summary

In 1999, no groups attempted the Chinese north side of the Karakoram 8,000 meter peaks (K2, Gasherbrum and Broad Peak). This year, five expeditions totaling 49 climbers and 16 Pakistani high altitude porters (HAPs) attempted K2's long north ridge. All climbers left K2 Base Camp by September 12th. K2 been summitted around 30 times via the north side and around  of 186 times by September 2000 (including Pakistan side). [For a complete list of K2 Summits see here.]

In 2000 the climbers included:

German Expedition with two climbers, Henning Paschke and Hans Stegmeir. This was Stegmeir's forth attempt on K2 (1993, 95, 98 and 2000) and Paschke's second attempt. They arrived at Basecamp around August 1st, about six weeks later than normal due to their teaching schedules at home. Their liason officer, Mr. Sidik from Kashgar Mountaineering Association camel said they were almost killed when their camel fell into the raging Shaksgam river when they crossed. The river is very high during July when glacier melt is at the highest point.

They initially resolved a dispute over fixed rope with the American expedition with a $3,000 payment. Stegmeir says the Americans actually physically blocked them from climbing. They reached a high point of 8,100 meters in early September. Their entire logistics were arranged by Kashgar Mountaineering Association, based out of Kashgar.

Other climbers on K2 north ridge were: 

Mexican Expedition with five climbers and four HAPs. The members were leader, Ponce De Leon, Andres Calderon [mis-spelled] who has summitted four 8,000 meter peaks, Spanish woman Araceli Segarra who is the first Spanish woman to summit Everest and American Marty Schmidt. High point was about 7,800 meters. 

A Japanese Expedition with five climbers and four Pakistani HAPs reached high point of 7,600 meters. China Taiwan Expedition with twenty climbers reached high point of 7,600 meters. 

American Expedition with eighteen members and eight Pakistani Hunza HAP's reached a high point of 7,600 meters at the end of July. 

Keyoum Mohammed Kashgar Mountaineering Association

K2 2000 Update: 9/18/2000

Park Young Seok, the famous Korean Climber, tells EverestNews.com, "We didn't summit K2". He is headed next to Shishapangma.

K2 2000 Update: 9/4/2000

Dear friends,

It's a pleasure to be back on the Internet after with my week offline. We are still recovering from an unforgettable and victorious expedition to K2. I apologize for the lack of news, but I really haven't have time to write, because the success of Project K2 has been so big that I have been interviewed every days since I arrived in Brazil. And don't think that my days will be peaceful from now on.  Many lectures have been requested and I've already returned to my trainings, because at the end of October I'll participate in the Mata Atlântica Expedition, the biggest  adventure race in Brazil . We will travel 450 km in  5 days alternating canoeing, mountain bike, climbing and rafting. It won't be easy and that's why  it's important to be every well prepared.

As it wasn't enough, I'm still defining my new project, that I must disclose soon; an expedition formed just by Brazilians that will face one of the greatest world   climbing challenges, an  impressive mountain that is located in the heart of Himalayas. 

Well,  I will let you  know all the news and many more details about our conquest of K2 in the coming weeks and of course we have many photos to share. 

Waldemar Niclevicz 

Project K2 2000 is sponsored by O Boticário, TAM, Net Vírtua and Sportsjá.

K2 2000 Update: Reliable sources report to EverestNews.com that Jay Sieger, a member of the American expedition to K2 (that quit a few weeks ago), is said to be continuing with the  Japanese group on the North Side (China). Jay had planned at one point to be a member of the American International K2 Expedition 2000 that have several members (see earlier stories) Summit K2 from the Pakistan side this year. Jay decided to changes Expeditions due to the lower cost on the North ridge expedition.

Photo taken from the Base Camp, exactly at the moment that the Koreans arrived at the summit. The crest that highlights on the right is the Abruzzos Ridge, route that Waldemar Niclevicz is climbing. The crest on the left is Tomo Cesen, route that the Koreans have climbed. The sunny part on the right of the summit is the called "Shoulder" (8000 meters), place where both routes join. Photo by Waldemar Niclevicz.

K2 2000:

In a year of many successes on K2, some more news & notes:

Abele Blanc has climbed 11 8000 peaks Now !

The 8000 meter peaks that Abele Blanc has climbed are: Everest - 1992, Broad Peak - 1993,  Kanchenjunga - 1995, Manaslu - 1996, Lhotse - 1997,  Cho Oyu - 1998, Shisha Pangma - 1998,  Gasherbrum I - 1999, Gasherbrum II -1999, and Makalu & K2 in 2000. 

The whole expedition of Waldemar Niclevicz, Abele Blanc and Marco Camandona made the Summit of K2 !

Andy Evans, said this:, "First, on the 29th  of JULY, the summit order was Abele, Marco, Nasuh then Waldemar.  All four of these men were be-knighted when they passed our tent at 7920 meters on the morning of July 30. It was a real marathon of trail breaking for the two Italians who staying in front for the whole 19 hours it took them to reach the top! I was looking down from the bottleneck at the last two, who both made it to C4 safely after a relatively benign night out above 8100 meters."

On the Chinese side on the Mountain, the Spanish are reporting that the very strong team of climbers including Araceli Segarra, Andres Delgado, Hector Ponce de Leon and America Marty Schmidt have given up for 2000. They were attempting K2 from on the North Side along with the American, Japanese, And strong (and huge) Chinese team. They are reporting daily Dispatches in Spanish on the  http://www.terra.es/deportes/escalada/k2/ web site. 

The American Expedition reporting on the Oreganlive has also cancelled their expedition: http://www.oregonlive.com/outdoors/special/k2.ssf

No news on Mr. Park and his Korean expedition who at last notice was still on the Pakistan side...

Spring K2 Summits ! A Draft Summary.


Gary, Evan, Andy and Billy is back in Pindi sorting out their ticketing back home. [All members of the American International K2 2000 Expedition]

Every things is fine, waiting for the debriefing with tourism office. 

Regards, Asghar Ali Porik Jasminetours.com


Summit times for July 30:  Mr. Hwang of Korea, w/O2, around 12 noon.  Japanese climber from SSE spur w/o O2, 12:15pm.  Chris Shaw 12:45, Andy Evans 13:15, Andy Collins 14:15, Billy Pierson 14:30.   I have no idea of the summit order on July 31 among all of the Koreans with Oxygen, but I know the lead Sherpa was among the first to the top and the first man down (summit around 06:30 and at our tent at 7920m by 09:30 or so).  Chris thinks he and I were the 179th and 180th summiteers of K2 from your pre-season list of 164 summiteers. He has also climbed Kanch with Gary and Ginette, and I climbed the North Ridge of Everest in ’97 with the Kazakhs.  Ivan Vallejo  and Nasuh had also climbed the North Ridge of Everest in 1999 and 1995 respectively.

Andy Evans, a Member of the American International K2 Expedition 2000


72nd day of the Expedition K2 2000 Islamabad, Capital of Pakistan

My friends!  Fortunately I'm already in Islamabad, with my friend Abele Blanc, finishing the last bureaucratic works to the government, so that we can leave Pakistan.

Today, one of the boring activities that I did was to bargain the absurd price of the rescue by helicopter, but we didn't succeed. At the end we had to pay US$ 9,700.00. That's true "nine thousand seven hundred dollars" for the helicopter rescue when we tried to save Marco's frozen fingers. The promised value was six thousand, but they started to tell us a long story.... Unfortunately our effort was in vain, because Marco is already in Italy and he will have his 6 fingers amputated in the first phalanx. It's deplorable.

And imagine, although we are very happy by reaching the summit of K2, we are too tired physically, and we still have to bear a big confusion at the end of the expedition. An extra amount of patience is being demanded now.  I have lost 12 kilos since the beginning of the expedition, and I don't like the local food, it's too spicy. Tomorrow  we'll still have the "de-briefing"- we need to go to the Ministry of Tourism with the officer to present a long report for the authorities. We need to render accounts about all. One who has already lived in a military dictatorship knows what I'm talking about. But, God willing, after all we'll be free to go away. 

And, I'm missing Brazil a lot, I'm not going to Italy now, as I had planned with my expedition friends. It's really a pity, a great party is being prepared for Marco and Abele. Well, the solution is not regret but commemorate, and much, in Brazil. So wait for me, because I must be in Brazil next week. I don't know the exact day yet. I'll let you know as soon as I confirm the flights.

Regards to everybody, here from Islamabad, where the temperature is around 40 degrees C, in the shadow. And for my beloved country, I leave my "see you soon"! I'm going running to its arms, full of love and missing too much! Insha Alá.

Waldemar Niclevicz, now one a few people alive to have reached the Summits of K2 and Everest. http://www.niclevicz.com.br/ 

Project K2 2000 is sponsored by O Boticário, TAM, Net Vírtua and Sportsjá.


Waldemar Niclevicz resting in Skardu after climbing K2, 12 kilos thinner.

Skardu, North of Pakistan,  Indo Riverbanks

Days go by, and as I have promised you, I will keep on sending news, although these will not be daily dispatches. Much has happened since Friday, the fourth. Marco and I left the Base Camp in order to escape from the mountains by helicopter. It was a thrilling and nervous trip and it cost a fortune "six thousand dollars". Nervous because we woke up at 3 a.m. to be in Concordia (4700 meters) on time (8:00 h) and the helicopter didn't appear. It appeared at 12:30, when we had no hopes left it would come. A big helicopter came, a MR 17, and not the "Lama" as they had promised. Entering, the helicpoter we observed the presence of a climber  in a bad shape, with his face deformed by several ulcerations and with the points of his fingers frozen.  He was the French climber Vinard Jhon, who after reaching the summit of Gasherbrum II was caught by an avalanche and got lost amidst a storm. The army helicopter and was rescuing hurt climbers. After a stop in Paiju, in the middle of the mountains, we changed to a small French helicopter "Lama". So, we went on our flight, one hour more,  in high speed,  almost touching the crests of the mountains leaving behind the glaciers, and rivers, with the Pakistan's pilots' know-how. 

One the day after arriving in Skardu, Marco went to Islamabad and today, fortunately he's already in Italy, to have his frozen his fingers treated. As the situation with my fingers isn't serious, I have decided to wait for Abele, who is coming by land, with all our equipment. He must get here tomorrow. Step by step, the contact with the trees, flowers, and the comfort of the hotel can make me feel a fast emotional recovery, but the physical waste must take a long time to get over. Just to have an idea, I've lost 12 kilos in two months of expedition. Really I'm too thin!

Waldemar Niclevicz, now one a few people alive to have reached the Summits of K2 and Everest.

Project K2 2000 is sponsored by O Boticário, TAM, Net Vírtua and Sportsjá.


Korean Summits of K2 according to report by Asghar Ali Porik Jasminetours.com

Korean K2 Expedition led by Mr. Han Kyo Yoo consisted of 12 members climbed the mountain and following members reached the summit.

Han Khy Yoo on 31 July,

Hong Gil Um 31 July, 

Hang on 31 July, 

Sang Hyun Mo on 31 July,

Serap Jangbu Sherpa on 31 July, 

Taek Park on 31 July

American International Expedition, to clear up any confusion.

Nasuh reached the Summit on 7/29/2000

Chris Shaw, Andy Collins, Billy Pierson and Andy Evans on 7/30/2000

Ivan Vallejo on 7/31/2000.

The staff at EverestNews.com 


1.) Waldemar and his expedition are believed to have departed K2 Base Camp for home.

2.) News from the American International Expedition:

I am back, safely, from the summit of K2 along with team mates Nasuh, Chris Shaw, Andy Collins, Billy Pierson and Ivan Vallejo.  We summited on three different days- July 29, 30 and 31 during a spell of beautiful weather between storms.  It was an incredible experience.  We are all very tired.

As Gary told you, I am leaving BC on August 4 with the early group. 

We will be shutting down the email early on August 4.

Regards, Andy Evans

3.) EverestNews.com did receive an e-mail from a person claiming to be with the Korean Expedition who implied the porter was fine now. The person has not responded to our requests for more information. 

4.) Since the two sat phones are now gone, it might be awhile before we know more. 

5.) EverestNews.com is asking questions, we will see who will answer.

6.) EverestNews.com is told Park Young-Seok, the famous Korean climber, has a web site reporting in Korean http://san.chosun.com/k2/climb/climb_main.html.

The Mountaineering Must Haves

Day 56-65

Day 46-55

Day 39-45

For previous Reports from K2 see our News Reports Index

K2 Team Lists 2000

K2 Summits (before 2000)


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