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Constantin
LACATUSU is the president of The Romanian
Mountain Club was born in Piatra Neamt, Romania
He
complete his Seven summits on December 10, 2001
(Vinson).
Make
sure you read his climbing resume after his
Seven summits list ! |
His
Seven Summits list:
1)
ELBRUS/5642m/: 1990, July: East
Peak: Romanian team, summit with Ted Tomov (Romania)
1993, June 27: West Peak: only 3 hrs 50min from
Priut reffuge; Romanian team (Viorel Tofan, Aurelian
Vivirschi, Lucian Mihai, Daniel Duta,
Lucian Constantinescu, Sorin Baciu)
2)
KILIMANJARO/6960m/: 1995, February 4: Marangu route, 2
days (12 hrs.of climbing), with S.Baciu (RO)
3)
EVEREST/8848m/: 1995, May 17: North Col-North
Ridge-NE Ridge, summit reached at 13.45 Nepali
time, alone from first step, oxygen used
from top camp (8250m) to the bottom of 2nd
step (8650m) on the way up; international
expedition led by Russel Brice (N. Zealand);
*1994: we reached 8100m on a new route,
NNE Face.
4)
ACONCAGUA/6960m/: 1996, February 16: Normal route from
Plaza de Mulas, summit with Oliver Batar
(Romania); 2 men 7 days expedition.
5)
McKinley/6194m/: 1997, June 4: West Butress route,
summit with Cornel Galescu (Romania); Romanian 8
days expedition.
6)
CARSTENSZ-PYRAMID/4884m/: 2000, April 25: East
Ridge route, team and summit with Joby Ogwyn
(USA).
7)
VINSON/4897m/: 2001, December 10: normal route,
teamed with Michael Hodges (USA); summit day: left
Camp 3 the last (2 hrs. after before the last one), arrived
summit the 1st, waiting half an hour for
my friend BERNARD VOYER (Canada), 4 meters below
the summit, to make last steps together !
-
INTERNATIONAL CLIMBING BACKGROUND
(selected
ascents)
1990
--- CAUCASUS : Elbrus East (5633m), Ushba-North summit
(4700m)- one of the most difficult4000m-s in the
world, Pic Sciurovski (4259m), Chatin-Tau W
(4200m);
---
SAXON SWITZERLAND (Germany, Elbsandsteingebirge):
Difficult rock climbing routes (6-8) ;
1991
--- CAUCASUS : Donguz Orun (4468m) –first Romanian
ascent, solo, 3 days, Ullu Tau W (4200m);
1992
--- HIMALAYA-KARAKORUM (Pakistan): Broad Peak
(8047m), August 2 – first Romanian 8000m
ascent, the only ascent of Broad Peak in 1992: a mixed
group of 1 Romanian, 2 Americans and 3 Spaniards out
of 70 different alpinists from 14 countries (10
different expeditions);
1993
--- CAUCASUS : Nakra (4451m) – first Romanian
ascent, Keishi (3702m) – first Romanian ascent,
Nakra –
Donguz
Orun Traverse (7 days) – national first, Elbrus W
(5642m)- The “Roof of Europe” 3hrs50’, Pic
Sciurovski (4259m)- The North Wall / Herghiani route
(TD+, 3 days) – first Romanian ascent;
1994
--- HIMALAYA : Everest (8848m) – 8100m on a new
route on the NNE Face (Tibet); several rescue actions
for some climbers in trouble from Canada, US, Italy,
New Zealand. International team including
world famous woman high altitude climber Chantal
Mauduit (France); “Fair-Play
Trophy”(awarded by the Romanian Olimpic Committee );
---SWISS
ALPS: Monte Rosa (4634m) – the highest Swiss
summit, first Romanian team ascent; Breithorn
(4160m) – NW Wall / Welzenbach route (TD+, 2 days)-
first Romanian ascent, Matterhorn (4478m) and
Rimpfischhorn (4199m) – first Romanian ascent;
1995
---AFRICA : Mount Kenya / Batian (5199m)
– 2-nd highest in Africa, - first Romanian ascent,
Point Lenana (4985m), Kilimanjaro (5895m)-The “Roof
of Africa” – 2-nd Romanian ascent in a record time
(2 days, 12hs effect.);
---HIMALAYA
: Everest (8848m) – “The Roof of the World”,
North side (North Ridge/NE Ridge) – first Romanian
atop Mount Everest (17th of May), International team
(Romania, N. Zealand, France, Canada, Finland,
Nepal); Emerit Master of Sport (Romanian Youth and
Sport Ministery); expedition led by Russell Brice (NZ)
included Alison Hargreaves;
1996
---CORDILLERA DE LOS ANDES (Argentina):
Aconcagua(6985m)–“The Roof of South America” and
Cerro Cuerno (5462m) / SW Face (TD) – first Romanian
ascent;
---HIMALAYA
(Nepal) : Dhaulagiri (8167m) – the world’s 7-th
highest mountain, NE Ridge. leader of a Romanian
expedition , first ever to climb over 7500m; altitude
reached=7850m; all high camps destroyed by 2 weeks
storm.
1997
---SCOTLAND : International Winter Climbing Meet
organized by the British Mountaineering Council and
the Scottish Sports Council; representatives of 26
countries all over the world; difficult mixed climbs
on ice/rock/snow together with British climbers;
conferences and symposium focused on mountain
environment, adventure tourism and international
mountaineering;
---ALASKA
(USA) : McKinley=Denali (6194m), “The Roof of North
America”, first Romanian team ascent in only 8 days
from base camp /2200m to the top /6194m in severe
arctic conditions; 3 days blocked at 11,000 ft
camp.
1998
--HIMALAYA (Tibet): Cho-Oyu (8201m) – the first
Romanian attempt on a new variant of the world’s
6-th highest peak; altitude reached=7500m in
bad, deteriorating weather (C.Lacatusu & Cornel
Galescu);
--FRENCH
ALPS / CHAMONIX-MONT BLANC: International Stage for
Mountain Leaders organized by French Federation of
Mountain and Climbing (FFME) and world famous National
School of Ski and Alpinism (ENSA, France); rock and
ice ascents in Mont Blanc area; Certificate of
International Mountaineering Instructor;
--HIMALAYA
(Tibet): Cho-Oyu (8201m) –SOLO- the first Romanian
successful self-supported 8000m expedition, first
Romanian ascent of the mountain, the fastest Cho-Oyu
ascent of the year in only 11 days since arriving in
Base Camp (5500m) to the top (24th of September);
1999
--HIMALAYA (Nepal): Dhaulagiri (8167m), autumn
season – International team (11 members from 5
countries of 3 continents); successful expedition on
the “Mountain of Storms”; in bad weather, Lacatusu
reached the NE peak (8140m) of the summit ridge,
alone; 2 other team mates made it to the summit
a day before, then weather has changed dramatically;
expedition led by Gary Pfisterer (US), fellow team
member Ginette Harrison killed in avalanche 2 weeks
later;
2000
--FRENCH ALPS – International Winter Ice Fall
Climbing Meet in Les Ecrins National Park; Member of
the “Access & Conservation” commission of the
UIAA (International Union of Alpinism
Associations);
--NEW
GUINEEA / IRIAN JAYA (Indonezia): Carstensz Pyramid
(4884m) – “The Roof of Australia-Oceania”, first
Romanian
ascent, very difficult route (East Ridge/Messner line,
probably first repeat, C. Lacatusu & Joby
Ogwyn-USA).
2001
--ANTARCTICA – Mount Vinson (4897m); 15 days
on the White Continent. Summit reached on
December, 10th. Last step of the Seven Highest
Continental Summits project.
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