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The following
Expeditions are on Lhotse this Spring 2000:
| Mt.
Lhotse (8516m) |
| HG
Lhotse Expedition 2000. |
Lhotse |
West
Face |
Henry B. Todd |
UK |
| Slovene
Himalayan Exp' Lhotse 2000. |
Lhotse |
West
CWM |
Tomaz Zerovnik |
Slovenia |
| Lhotse
G'RUS 2000 Expedition |
Lhotse |
W.
Face |
Benedict Kashakashvilli |
Georgia |
| Lhotse
- International expedition |
Lhotse |
|
Piotr Pustelnik
|
|
G'RUS means
Georgian-Russian expedition (there are 4 Georgians and 5 Russian there). They
are covered by Risk and one more site (Russian only).
The other two persons
in their permit but working absolutely separate (these two places sold by Asian
Trekking to them directly) are Simone Moro (Italy) and Denis Urubko
(Kazakhstan).
There is one more
expedition to lead by Borislav Dimitrov (Bulgaria). There are two climbers from
Russia under their permit - Dmitry Moskalev and Yuri Soifer. They said
they will work separately from main part of expedition and named their part as
MAI-2000.
Source: www.risk.ru
You may follow
the Georgia/Russia Expedition on Risk www.risk.ru.
EverestNews.com hopes
to also have reports from other sources coming...
5/4/2000 The
reports from MAI-2000 expedition to Lhotse, April, 30th and May, 2nd... details
10.05 The report from MAI-2000 expedition to Lhotse, May
9th... details
-
Today at 6.30pm have
Piotr Pustelnik (Poland) and Beno Kashakashvili (Georgia) reached
the summit of Lhotse.
"But
they are in big trouble
because they didn't find needed equipment and food left by Sherpas before. So
they were probably very dehydrated and exhausted case they didn't drink and eat
from yesterday. And they have to return back..."
"We are wishing
them successful descent and return to their camp. Good luck!
-
Update 5/18/2000
Lhotse 8516m -
Summitted
Ascent Route : West
Face
Date of Summit : 15 May 2000
Name of the Expedition : Lhotse Grus 2000 Expedition
Expedition Leader : Mr. Benedict Kashakashvili, (1967), Engineer, Tibilisi,
Georgia.
Country : Georgia
No. of Team Members :9
Starting Point : South Col
Time of Summit : 7.00PM
Starting Time : 5 AM
Summiters, Age,
Occupation, Home Town & Country
1, Mr. Benedict
Kashakashvili, (1967), Leader, Engineer, Tibilisi, Georgia
2, Mr. Temba Nuru
Sherpa (26yrs) HAP Namche-6, Thame, Solukhumbu, Nepal
Lhotse 8,516m - Summitted
Ascent Route : West
Face
Date of Summit : 15 May 2000
Name of the Expedition :International Lhotse Expedition
Expedition Leader : Mr. Piotr Pustelnik, (1951), Engineer, Todz, Poland
Country : Poland
No. of Team Members : 9
Starting Point : South Col
Starting Time : 7.30AM
Time of Summit : 7.00 PM
Name of Summiters,
Age, Occupation, Home Town & Country
1, Mr. Piotr
Pustelnik, (1951),Leader, Engineer, Todz, Poland
18.05 Photos
from the top of Lhotse, May 15th: Beno Kashakashvili and Piotr Pustelnik... details
NEWSFLASH 7:42AM EST
US 5/19/2000
- AND THEN THERE WERE
SEVEN !
Sergio Martini, has
reached the Summit of Lhotse completing the 14 8000 meter Summits.
Sergio is a great climber. When he summited Everest in 1999 from the North
without the use of bottled
oxygen, climbers told
EverestNews.com, "He
looks like he was out for a hike".
EverestNews.com was
told that Sergio was going to Lhotse, but we were asked to keep it a secret
until after He Summited.
EverestNews.com and
his Italians friends figured the secret would be out when he arrived into
Everest Base Camp with his camera crew. However, the many reporters did not seem
to notice. Probably saying something about how H.A. climbing is generally
covered around the world.
Sergio once before
thought he Summitted Lhotse. Sergio was climbing in white out conditions (well
what some others would call white out conditions). A climber in the following
days, claimed Sergio and his (Fausto
De Stefani) friend's
footprints did not go all the way to the Summit of Lhotse. Sergio had thought
they did, but as we understand it, he said it was possible under the conditions
that they did not. His "Summit" was not recognized. Sergio, did not
protest, that we know of. Instead,
he returned in his quiet and humble way and did it again !
Sergio now ranked with
the other 6 great men, those Summits are NOT disputed:
Reinhold
Messner (ITA)
Jerzy
Kukuczka (POL)
Ehardt
Loretan (SUI)
Carlos
Carsolio (MEX)
Krzysztof
Wielicki (POl)
Juan
Oiarzabal (Spain)
This is an elite class
of climbers. As time go on, EverestNews.com thinks you will see just how hard it
is to complete the 14!
Now there are Seven !
- We thank the
Slovenians, who we shared the secret with, for their help. We also thank our
Italians friends for having the trust in EverestNews.com to share the secret
with us that he was going...
Slovenian News !
Ascent Route : West
Face
Date of Summit : 19 May 2000
Name of the Expedition : Slovenian Himalayan Expedition Lhotse 2000
Expedition Leader : Mr. Tomaz Zerovnik, (1967), Computer Professional,
Merezilje, SLOVENIA.
Country : SLOVENIA
No. of Team Members :8
Starting Point : C-4 (app. 7900m)
Time of Summit : 14.10
Nepal Time
Start Time: 01.00 Nepal
Time
Name of Summiters,
Age, Occupation, Home Town & Country
1. Aco Pepevnik, 41,
Professional Climber, Sentjur, SLOVENIA
2. Milan Romih, 40,
Professional Climber, Slovenska Bistrica, SLOVENIA
Note: Italian climber
Sergio also summited Lhotse with them!
5/21/2000: Today at 1pm all
the team of Russian-Georgian expedition summited to the top of Lhotse Main!
Congratulations!... details
5/24 MAI-2000 Lhotse
expedition. Dmitry Moskalev reports from Deboche.... details
5/24 Beno Kashakashvili
reports from base camp of Lhotse Russian-Georgian expedition. May 23-24th... details
5/23 Lhotse report from
5/22... details
Name
of the Expedition: Lhotse Grus 2000 Expedition
Expedition
Leader: Mr. Benedict Kashakashvili (1967), Engineer, Tiblisi, Georgia.
Country:
Georgia
No.
of Team Members: 9
Ascent
Route: West Face
Starting
Point: South Col.
Date
of Summit: 21st May 2000
Time
of Summit: 1 PM
Summiters,
Date of Birth, Occupation, Home Town & Country
1.
Mr. Api Gigani (1956), Aviation Engineer, Kutaisi, Georgia
2.
Mr. Bidzina Gujuabidze, (1960),
Farmer, Tbilisi, Georgia
3.
Mr. Gela Otarashvili (1969),
Engineer, Tbilisi, Georgia
4.
Mr. Evgueni Vinogradski (1946),
Doctor, Yekaterinburg, Russia
5.
Mr. Gleb Sokolov, (1953),
Teacher, Novokushetsk, Russia
6.
Mr. Valeri Perchine (1948),
Coach, Yekaterinburg, Russia
7.
Mr. Alexandre Foigt (1958),
Coach, Novokushetsk, Russia
8.
Mr. Youri Baikovski (1958),
Teacher, Moscow, Russia
Expedition
Leader: Mr. Piotr Pustelnik (1951), Engineer, Todz, Poland.
Country:
Poland
No.
of Team Members: 9
Ascent
Route: West Face
Starting
Point: South Col.
Date
of Summit: 19th May 2000
Time
of Summit: 2 PM
1.
Mr. Sergio Martini, Rovereto, Italy.
- Lhotse Spring 2000
Update:
A climber named
Goncalo Velez, who owns the Expedition Company Rotas do Vento - Expedicoes e
Viagens de Aventura Lda, R Lusiadas 5 4-K, 1300-365 Lisboa, Portugal,
went to Lhotse this Spring 2000.
His Current Update:
with a short note about his Summit Attempt without oxygen
I have been stuck in
Lukla due to the monsoon for 2 days now. Our equipment arrived just
today. Although I felt it necessary to turn back only 100-150 meters
from the summit I had a great expedition.
On May 25 I got off
the tent at C4 (7700m) en route to the summit at 2h40. The two Slovenian
climbers that should have been in front of us returned to their tent. Reason:
they forgot their mittens! My fellow climber Doychin Vassilev (a Bulgarian),
turned around after 1h30 due to respiratory problems. This left me climbing up
the Lhotse couloir alone, without oxygen, barely no trail and with some 40cm
of deep snow. These conditions delayed me a great deal. By 15h I had reached
the end of the couloir when the weather was changing: the wind got stronger,
snow fell and the visibility decreased a lot. I called Beno (Benedict
Kashakashvili, Georgia) in BC who had summited 10 days before for information
about how far I could be from the summit. There were some interferences in the
communication and he did not bother to move to another place or try another
antenna. "Call me in an hour", he finalized adding to my
discouragement!! I also had a compromise not to stay in our C4 tent because
the Georgians would be using it. So I had to descend direct to C3 (7100m)
which is a long way. The weather got worse, wind, cold, snow and fog and,
worrying about the descent, I turned around. I sensed that I must have been
near but these various factors made me decide realistically.
Piotr, Benedict and
the Georgians/Russians all used oxygen in their ascents. Sergio Martini and
the 2 Slovenians climbing on May 24 did not use any oxygen.
If you need any
further info please let me know. Best regards. Goncalo Velez
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