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 Lhotse 2000

The following Expeditions are on Lhotse this Spring 2000:

Mt. Lhotse (8516m)
HG Lhotse Expedition 2000. Lhotse West Face Henry B. Todd UK
Slovene Himalayan Exp' Lhotse 2000. Lhotse West CWM Tomaz Zerovnik Slovenia
Lhotse G'RUS 2000  Expedition Lhotse W. Face Benedict Kashakashvilli Georgia
Lhotse - International expedition  Lhotse   Piotr Pustelnik   

G'RUS means Georgian-Russian expedition (there are 4 Georgians and 5 Russian there). They are covered by Risk and one more site (Russian only). 

The other two persons in their permit but working absolutely separate (these two places sold by Asian Trekking to them directly) are Simone Moro (Italy) and Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan). 

There is one more expedition to lead by Borislav Dimitrov (Bulgaria). There are two climbers from Russia under their permit - Dmitry Moskalev and Yuri Soifer.  They said they will work separately from main part of expedition and named their part as MAI-2000. 

Source: www.risk.ru 

You may follow the Georgia/Russia Expedition on Risk www.risk.ru.

EverestNews.com hopes to also have reports from other sources coming...

5/4/2000 The reports from MAI-2000 expedition to Lhotse, April, 30th and May, 2nd... details  

  • Update 5/13/2000

10.05 The report from MAI-2000 expedition to Lhotse, May 9th... details

  • Today at 6.30pm have Piotr Pustelnik (Poland) and Beno Kashakashvili (Georgia) reached the summit of Lhotse.

    "But they are in big trouble because they didn't find needed equipment and food left by Sherpas before. So they were probably very dehydrated and exhausted case they didn't drink and eat from yesterday. And they have to return back..."

    "We are wishing them successful descent and return to their camp. Good luck!

  • Update 5/18/2000

Lhotse 8516m - Summitted

Ascent Route : West Face
Date of Summit : 15 May 2000
Name of the Expedition : Lhotse Grus 2000 Expedition
Expedition Leader : Mr. Benedict Kashakashvili, (1967), Engineer, Tibilisi, Georgia.
Country : Georgia
No. of Team Members :9
Starting Point : South Col
Time of Summit : 7.00PM
Starting Time : 5 AM

Summiters, Age, Occupation, Home Town & Country

1, Mr. Benedict Kashakashvili, (1967), Leader, Engineer, Tibilisi, Georgia

2, Mr. Temba Nuru Sherpa (26yrs) HAP Namche-6, Thame, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Lhotse 8,516m - Summitted

Ascent Route : West Face
Date of Summit : 15 May 2000
Name of the Expedition :International Lhotse Expedition
Expedition Leader : Mr. Piotr Pustelnik, (1951), Engineer, Todz, Poland
Country : Poland
No. of Team Members : 9
Starting Point : South Col
Starting Time : 7.30AM
Time of Summit : 7.00 PM

Name of Summiters, Age, Occupation, Home Town & Country

1, Mr. Piotr Pustelnik, (1951),Leader, Engineer, Todz, Poland

18.05 Photos from the top of Lhotse, May 15th: Beno Kashakashvili and Piotr Pustelnik... details

NEWSFLASH 7:42AM EST US 5/19/2000


Sergio Martini, has reached the Summit of Lhotse completing the 14 8000 meter Summits. Sergio is a great climber. When he summited Everest in 1999 from the North without the use of bottled oxygen, climbers told EverestNews.com, "He looks like he was out for a hike". 

EverestNews.com was told that Sergio was going to Lhotse, but we were asked to keep it a secret until after He Summited.

EverestNews.com and his Italians friends figured the secret would be out when he arrived into Everest Base Camp with his camera crew. However, the many reporters did not seem to notice. Probably saying something about how H.A. climbing is generally covered around the world.

Sergio once before thought he Summitted Lhotse. Sergio was climbing in white out conditions (well what some others would call white out conditions). A climber in the following days, claimed Sergio and his (Fausto De Stefani) friend's footprints did not go all the way to the Summit of Lhotse. Sergio had thought they did, but as we understand it, he said it was possible under the conditions that they did not. His "Summit" was not recognized. Sergio, did not protest, that we know of. Instead, he returned in his quiet and humble way and did it again !

Sergio now ranked with the other 6 great men, those Summits are NOT disputed: 

Reinhold Messner (ITA)

Jerzy Kukuczka (POL)

Ehardt Loretan (SUI)

Carlos Carsolio (MEX)

Krzysztof Wielicki (POl)

Juan Oiarzabal (Spain)

This is an elite class of climbers. As time go on, EverestNews.com thinks you will see just how hard it is to complete the 14!

Now there are Seven !

  • We thank the Slovenians, who we shared the secret with, for their help. We also thank our Italians friends for having the trust in EverestNews.com to share the secret with us that he was going...

Slovenian News !

Ascent Route : West Face
Date of Summit : 19 May 2000
Name of the Expedition : Slovenian Himalayan Expedition Lhotse 2000
Expedition Leader : Mr. Tomaz Zerovnik, (1967), Computer Professional, Merezilje, SLOVENIA.
Country : SLOVENIA
No. of Team Members :8
Starting Point : C-4 (app. 7900m)

Time of Summit : 14.10 Nepal Time

Start Time: 01.00 Nepal Time

Name of Summiters, Age, Occupation, Home Town & Country

1. Aco Pepevnik, 41, Professional Climber, Sentjur, SLOVENIA

2. Milan Romih, 40, Professional Climber, Slovenska Bistrica, SLOVENIA

Note: Italian climber Sergio also summited Lhotse with them!

5/21/2000: Today at 1pm all the team of Russian-Georgian expedition summited to the top of Lhotse Main! Congratulations!... details 

5/24 MAI-2000 Lhotse expedition. Dmitry Moskalev reports from Deboche.... details

5/24 Beno Kashakashvili reports from base camp of Lhotse Russian-Georgian expedition. May 23-24th... details

5/23 Lhotse report from 5/22... details 

  • Mt. Lhotse 8,516m - Summitted

 Name of the Expedition: Lhotse Grus 2000 Expedition

Expedition Leader: Mr. Benedict Kashakashvili (1967), Engineer, Tiblisi, Georgia.

Country: Georgia

No. of Team Members: 9

Ascent Route: West Face

Starting Point: South Col.

Date of Summit: 21st May 2000

Time of Summit: 1 PM

 Summiters, Date of Birth, Occupation, Home Town & Country

 1.      Mr. Api Gigani (1956), Aviation Engineer, Kutaisi, Georgia

2.      Mr. Bidzina Gujuabidze, (1960), Farmer, Tbilisi, Georgia

3.      Mr. Gela Otarashvili (1969), Engineer, Tbilisi, Georgia

4.      Mr. Evgueni Vinogradski (1946), Doctor, Yekaterinburg, Russia

5.      Mr. Gleb Sokolov, (1953), Teacher, Novokushetsk, Russia

6.      Mr. Valeri Perchine (1948), Coach, Yekaterinburg, Russia

7.      Mr. Alexandre Foigt (1958), Coach, Novokushetsk, Russia

8.      Mr. Youri Baikovski (1958), Teacher, Moscow, Russia

  • Name of the Expedition: International Lhotse Expedition

Expedition Leader: Mr. Piotr Pustelnik (1951), Engineer, Todz, Poland.

Country: Poland

No. of Team Members: 9

Ascent Route: West Face

Starting Point: South Col.

Date of Summit: 19th May 2000

Time of Summit: 2 PM

1. Mr. Sergio Martini, Rovereto, Italy.

  • Lhotse Spring 2000 Update:

A climber named Goncalo Velez, who owns the Expedition Company Rotas do Vento - Expedicoes e Viagens de Aventura Lda, R Lusiadas 5 4-K, 1300-365 Lisboa, Portugal, went to Lhotse this Spring 2000.

His Current Update: with a short note about his Summit Attempt without oxygen

I have been stuck in Lukla due to the monsoon for 2 days now.  Our equipment arrived just today.  Although I felt it necessary to turn back only 100-150 meters from the summit I had a great expedition.

On May 25 I got off the tent at C4 (7700m) en route to the summit at 2h40. The two Slovenian climbers that should have been in front of us returned to their tent. Reason: they forgot their mittens! My fellow climber Doychin Vassilev (a Bulgarian), turned around after 1h30 due to respiratory problems. This left me climbing up the Lhotse couloir alone, without oxygen, barely no trail and with some 40cm of deep snow. These conditions delayed me a great deal. By 15h I had reached the end of the couloir when the weather was changing: the wind got stronger, snow fell and the visibility decreased a lot. I called Beno (Benedict Kashakashvili, Georgia) in BC who had summited 10 days before for information about how far I could be from the summit. There were some interferences in the communication and he did not bother to move to another place or try another antenna. "Call me in an hour", he finalized adding to my discouragement!! I also had a compromise not to stay in our C4 tent because the Georgians would be using it. So I had to descend direct to C3 (7100m) which is a long way. The weather got worse, wind, cold, snow and fog and, worrying about the descent, I turned around. I sensed that I must have been near but these various factors made me decide realistically. 

Piotr, Benedict and the Georgians/Russians all used oxygen in their ascents. Sergio Martini and the 2 Slovenians climbing on May 24 did not use any oxygen. 

If you need any further info please let me know. Best regards. Goncalo Velez 

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